Showing posts with label climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label climbing. Show all posts

Mar 8, 2019

The People You Meet Along The Way: Celebrating the Women of the World - International Womens Day 2019

Travel isn’t simply about movement from one place to the next. It’s deeper and broader. In travel, there are lessons to be learned from those who forge their lives in the hustle and bustle of the city, in dusty villages, along rolling hillsides and in the shadows of soaring mountain peaks. 

Today is International Women’s Day, a day to celebrate the social, economic, cultural and political achievements of women - while also making a call to action for accelerating gender balance. In celebrating I reflect on gender balance in the context of my travels and the women and men who have made deep impressions on me. Impressions which challenge the stereotypes. Impressions of women at the front. Impressions of women leading, providing and working as equals alongside their male counterparts. Impressions of women, driving change and creating opportunities for women today and for future generations.

Strength and resilience in the Himalayas…

I remember my first trip to the Himalayas over two decades ago. I was welcomed with warm smiles and hot tea into Guest Houses across Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan by kind, strong, and confident women – ‘didis’, mothers, sisters, aunties, grandmothers. Not only were these women business savvy proprietresses, they were the heads of the family - running the household, raising children, managing finances, tending to the gardens and crops. 



Let me introduce the humble Ang Domi Sherpa. She lives a quiet life in the small village of Thame, Nepal. Whilst her husband spends seasons guiding on Everest, Ang Domi raises the family, runs a busy tea-house, and follows her passion for training for the Everest Marathon - she's completed it multiple times including in 2015 when she ran it and raised funds to help rebuild Thame village after it was destroyed in the Nepal earthquake. The 42km race, one of the toughest in the world, starts at Everest Base Camp (5,364m) and ends at Namche Bazaar (3,440m). It was humbling listening to Ang Domi's story - even more so as she sheepishly and somewhat apologetically explained the reason behind one of her ‘slower’ paces - she was pregnant at the time.



Similarly, I reflect on a cup of tea shared with a group of the local women in a small village of Gairung, Nepal following the devastating earthquakes of 2015. Nearly all the homes in the village were destroyed and many men, women and children were injured or lost their lives. I listened as the women quietly told their stories, the depth of their emotions shared through facial expressions, intonations, hand gestures, tears and smiles. Despite not ‘understanding’ the language the lessons and learnings were clear. These women were pillars resilience reflected by the way they pulled together the courage and strength to organise grassroots relief efforts and rebuild their lives, their families and their communities - while their husbands worked on construction projects abroad to generate an income to support the family. 



Business acumen and tenacity in South East Asia…

The women of the markets in countries throughout South East Asia also left an early impression. I think back to the steamy and crowded Chatuchak market in Thailand. The commercial prowess of the women running their busy market stalls laden with stacks of produce, fresh fish and meats would give most business programs a run for their money. I received firsthand lessons in marketing, haggling and client service as I observed the women as they interacted with their eager customers. I watched inspired as they confidently and gracefully beheaded, gutted and wrapped fresh fish with a wink and a smile. 

Culture, celebration and family in Peru…

I think back to an expedition in Peru and the women who celebrated with us upon our return from the dizzying heights of Alpamayo. Local women prepared a celebratory feast and invited us into their homes to experience the richness of the Peruvian culture and cuisine. With great fanfare of music and celebration in their colourful layered skirts, we dined and danced together enjoying a delicious dish of ‘pachamanca’  - potatoes, corn and meat buried and cooked in an underground ‘oven’ of hot stones. Not only was it a celebration of our safe return from the mountains, it was a celebration in and of itself, a source of fertility and life. 



Confidence and capability in the Alps…

A reflection on impressions and inspiration moves next to the women – the guides, the coaches, the mentors, the friends - I’ve shared a rope with in my ‘mountain playground’ of the Chamonix Valley. I’m grateful for their lessons about movement in the mountains and in life more broadly. These women ‘get’ it and they ‘get’ me. The insecurities and vulnerability I feel around harder skills – technical ability, capability, and strength, as well as the softer lessons in purpose, passion and values. I have tremendous gratitude for their listening ears, the firmness of their instruction and gentleness of their advice. I would not be the person I am today – on and off the mountain – without their friendship, support and guidance. 



Discipline, commitment courage and creativity in Alaska… 

There are the women who not only inspire us on our journeys but also physically take us there. A highlight of an expedition to Denali, Alaska was being flown into basecamp by pilot Leighan Falley.  The short film, “Denali’s Raven” provides a glimpse into her life as a pilot, skier, alpinist and mother as she soars above the glaciers and peaks of the Alaska Range with her daughter Skye strapped into the backseat of her de Havilland Beaver. Her story and lesson is one of balance, of discipline, commitment, courage and creativity - a love for the dramatic Alaskan landscape, a need to supplement her career as a mountain guide, and her role as a wife and mother. 

Somewhat awe-struck I stepped into the plane as she shared with me an insight about her experiences in a predominately male dominated industry – “It’s not hard being a female pilot in Alaska, but that’s also the wonderful thing about aviation. The airplane, the mountains, and the weather—they don’t know you’re a woman…” A lesson extending to mountaineering as well.



The people you meet along the way….

There are the women travelers I’ve met along the way. Solo travellers, families, women traveling with their sisters, daughters, aunts, lovers… Some traveling on a holiday, some traveling to raise money for a charity, some simply traveling for the sake of travel. Confident, curious, kind, inspiring women everywhere. These are the women you meet in the coffee shops, in the guest houses, the airports, the visa queues, along the trails, on the summits and on the long journeys home... From these women I learn the importance of listening, sharing and kindness. Everyone has a story and a lesson and there is always a learning.
  

International Women’s Day 2019...

Today as we celebrate International Women’s Day I’m grateful for all those women and men who continue to challenge perceptions and inspire us to look beyond perceived boundaries. I’ve highlighted a few examples from my travels - but this summary is neither comprehensive nor geographically representative. 

I’m also inspired closer to home by the many women and men in my life – the friends, family, colleagues, mentors, coaches and role models - who are examples for me and many others in environments far removed from adventures in the mountains. 

As my friend the inspiring Shalena Poffenberger recently reflected in her travel blog, Longitudianal Shift. “Women are the ropes that hold communities together. They’ve spun the thread, weaved the cloth, and transformed it into something unbreakable. That’s what a woman is. She is the background, the foreground and the connector. We women work together, we work against each other, and we work on behalf of one another. But all day long, we are working for something.” 

We have much to celebrate today but there is still a long way to go to achieve a world where gender balance is the norm – but until then let us continue to work toward this goal and recognise the women and men around the world who move the dial and are examples to us all. 











Feb 26, 2019

SPRING 2019 CLIMBING PLANS: A Tale of Two Mountains...

Mountains. Looking back on journeys to these wild places and looking ahead to those to come, I wonder why I'm drawn to their rocky, snowy slopes and why I consciously succumb into their folds. Is it the unharnessed, unpredictable wildness of these places in a world that feels increasingly 'pre-meditated, staged and controlled'? Is it the people I meet along the way – their hardy, weather-beaten faces etched with signs of a life lived raw and rugged, welcoming me into their private sanctuaries and personal narratives? Or is it the ego that pulls me higher and higher? Would I still climb if there was not that 'lure' to share the triumphs and tribulations - for whatever reason or purpose?

I’ve realized there’s no simple answer - yet this hasn’t stopped the search for an altruistic justification between ‘purpose’, ‘passion’ and ‘ego’. For me, these questions are the kindling to self-awareness and reflection – the physical mountains providing the spark for the fire. 

It’s the entirety of the journey to these wild places that fuel me. The lure of the unknown, of possibility, of growth, adventure, the intimacy of experience, the connection to nature and the people I meet along the way. These journeys provide me with perspective. I’m reminded that I’m small, insignificant and vulnerable. My ego crumbles, and my perspective expands. Living completely in the moment, the borders between myself and my surroundings appear to dissolve; I feel sunsets instead of simply seeing them. On these journeys, an unexplainable peace fills me - elusive, indefinable. And I recognize how I fit into the world. 

I look forward to returning to the Himalayas this spring. An alignment of passion, purpose and circumstance has helped shape the bones of journey that brings together those elements that drive me to pursue a life that challenges and rewards in equal measure. 

Namaste Nepal – it’s time for our journey to continue once again…

Chapter I: Ego and Passion

Kyajo Ri…

In the Khumbu Himal, running just north of the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar, is a long line of peaks continuing all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepalese-Tibetan border. With the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east, Kyajo Ri, at 6186 meters (20,295 feet) is the highest summit on the southern part of this ridge. It’s the highest peak in the immediate vicinity and doesn’t take a broad stretch of the imagination to recognize the potential for unparalleled views of the Himalayan panorama from its snowy triangular summit.

Kyajo Ri was opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism, in 2002 and the first (official) ascent was made that year by a French/British team. They approached from the village of Machermo, traversed the Kyajo Glacier and climbed via the Southwest Ridge. Whilst the mountain is now climbed regularly both commercially and in alpine style via several different routes, it remains a relatively quiet objective with only a few teams found on its flanks each season. It remains overshadowed by the more popular commercial peaks of Ama Dablam and Island Peak. 

Not an unfamiliar face…

I was on Kyajo Ri in the Autumn of 2011 climbing in alpine style with American-Italian alpinist Fabrizio Zangrelli. It was a training expedition focused on honing my mountaineering skills and building confidence and agility in the mountains. Kyajo Ri was an excellent peak to help meet these objectives. It’s a technical mountain without being extreme – the route free of fixed rope and anchors and retains its pristine wild condition. Fabrizio and I climbed from the ‘Machermo side’ via the southwest ridge but did not summit, turning back at Camp 2 due to unstable “sugar snow” conditions. The decision was prudent. We woke the following morning to the ominous beat of rescue-helicopter blades cutting the air and learned that the small Russian team ahead of us had tragically fallen from the ridge and lost their lives. Our descent and retreat to the comforts of Machermo was inevitable and we trekked across the Khumbu for a quick ascent of Island Peak to make the most of our acclimated bodies, soak-up the beautiful views, burn-off calories from bottomless plates of momos and the enjoy company of the local people and trekkers passing through the region.

This April I return to Kyajo Ri, climbing alpine style from the ‘Mende side’ and in the company of New Zealand based IFMGA / NZMGA mountain and ski guide, Mal Haskins. I met Mal in the dust of the relief efforts of the 2015 earthquake and we’ve since kept in touch sharing climbing projects and objectives. Earlier this year I mentioned my desire to return to Nepal to climb a ‘non-8000er and non-uber commercial’ mountain with the caveat that it had to be ‘interesting and fun’. His suggestion of Kyajo Ri ticked all the boxes.  

Background and context…

My most recent journey to Nepal and into the mountains of the Khumbu was in the Spring of 2017 – a trip driven largely by a desire to overcome ‘mental barriers’ which had emerged following my experiences in the 2015 earthquake. Balanced between moving from the UK to Canada, working with several not-for-profit organizations, climbing Lobuche Peak, and spending time with the High Altitude Worker Teams as they prepared Everest Base Camp for the climbing season, it was one of the most personally fulfilling trips I’ve ever had. I returned to sea level revived, humbled and fully in-tune with a sense of purpose. Whilst my love for Nepal had never subsided in the aftermath of the earthquake, my confidence certainly had and I was overcome with a sense of relief that the mountains and their people that I’d felt such a connection to, again felt like home. With my ego back in check and purpose aligned, I knew that my narrative with the country was far from over.

In the Autumn of 2018 my social media feeds were inundated with the inevitable post-monsoon Himalayan ‘mountain porn’. I found myself looking east once again. 

I look forward to returning to Nepal this Spring and have been going through the all-too familiar motions in trying to strike a precarious balance between preparing for an expedition and meeting the professional commitments of a full time job in an industry far removed from the mountains. With discipline, commitment, courage and creativity things are falling into place – and with an early April departure, the countdown is now well and truly on. 

Chapter II: Passion and Purpose

The Khumbu Climbing Centre

High in the Himalaya and deep in the heart of the Khumbu valley just off beaten track to Everest, there’s a quiet pastoral village called Phortse perched at 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) among the clouds, overlooked by the iconic west face Ama Dablam, and in the shadow of the holy peak, Khumbilia. 

In October 2012 our expedition climbing team spent a few days in Phortse enroute to climb Ama Dablam. Trekking uphill into Phortse in the warm afternoon sunshine from the gaping gorge of the Dud Kosi river, we were treated with our first glimpse of the terraced fields, yak dung drying in the sun, humble stone houses, a rolling birch forest, grazing yak and seemingly endless views of the Khumbu. As someone living in the cacophonic chaos of a modern western city, the gentle and spiritual nature of the village felt surreal and perfectly idyllic. 

Walking into Phortse, the characteristic ‘tap-tap-tap’ of masons at work and the faint rumble of a drill broke through the air, mixed with the grunts of the yaks roaming in the terraced fields. The orchestra of the Khumbu. The source of the sound was a group of local and western builders and masons led by Tim Harrington. They were thoroughly absorbed in their trade huddled over a large plank of wood laid on an impressive foundation of a building in early stages of construction. It was my first view of the Khumbu Climbing Centre (KCC)

Given my penchant for outdoor building projects, (thanks Dad!) my imagination was captured and I felt a hankering to roll-up my sleeves and get involved.  We spent a thoroughly enjoyable few days at the KCC enjoying the company of the builders and lodge guests, learning about the ups and downs of carrying out an ambitious project in the heart of the Khumbu. A labor of love in all respects.

History: Building and fostering a responsible climbing community in the heart of the Khumbu 

On a visit to Phortse in Nepal 2002, Jenni Lowe-Anker and her husband Conrad Anker were struck by how much the Sherpa guiding community craved a chance to develop better technical skills, both for professional advancement and, to put it bluntly, avoid getting killed. 

Statistics showed that a staggering one third of all deaths on Everest were Sherpa and few had the skills that would help to keep them and their clients safe in the mountains. Under the vision and leadership of Jennie and Conrad and with the support of a broader community who recognized the importance of keeping people safe in the mountains, The Khumbu Climbing Center was launched in 2003. Its mission: to increase the safety margin of Nepali climbers and high-altitude workers by encouraging responsible climbing practices in a supportive and community-based program. The goal was not only to teach technical hard skills, but also to promote climbing for fun.

Since its inception, it’s become a successful vocational program for indigenous people and has served nearly one-thousand Nepali men and women. Each winter technical climbing skills are taught along with English language, mountain safety, rescue, and wilderness first aid. In its early stages, instructors were qualified western climbers and guides who had experience in the Himalaya. Today, most of the teachers are Nepali but the KCC continue to have a small Western team travel to Centre each season. An inspiring example of how a project has directly empowered a local community with benefits realised by people around the world.

"Bricks and mortar”

The bricks and mortar of the KCC structure has come a long way since my first visit in 2012. Over an eight month work season beginning in March, the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (ALCF) has paid more than 6,000 person days of local labour in 2016, employed as many as 50 Nepalis at once, more than doubling completion progress. This model of leveraging local labour and building expertise, supported by design and building professionals, has paid off. The building has created good, well-paying jobs for Nepalis and is nearly ready for completion and its Grand Opening in June 2019.

The KCC headquarters will house technical climbing gear, educational materials, indoor and outdoor training walls. Flexible space provides classrooms for training, and a community meeting place for the local people of Phortse and nearby villages. A new medical clinic, library, and caretaker's quarters will support both the KCC and the village. All aspects of the KCC building will provide the capacity to generate income for the KCC programs – and associated opportunities – to continue to thrive and expand.

When passion and purpose collide

Beyond the enjoyable few days spent watching the painstaking foundations being laid for the KCC back in 2012, I’ve directly benefited from the teachings of the Khumbu Climbing Centre. As a non-independent commercial climber who’s come to Nepal on expedition for over 15 years, I’ve consistently relied on the support (technical climbing skills, mountain safety and rescue) and provided by many High Altitude workers for expeditions including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Shishapangma and Ama Dablam – to name a few. Without the support and leadership of these people, the expeditions would not have been as successful – and in some cases, impossible. I’ve also seen the rescue-skills deployed firsthand as High Altitude Workers and Sherpa have selflessly risked their lives to help others. Similarly, and perhaps most poignantly, I have a number of Sherpa friends who have participated in the programme offered by the KCC and have benefited from a steady income for themselves and their families by safely leading individuals and teams on expeditions both in the Himalaya and beyond.

With the KCC nearing completion in advance of its Grand Opening in early June, I have the opportunity to contribute to the finishing touches on this tremendously worthwhile project. It’s absolutely humbling to be part of and I’m so grateful to Jenni, Conrad, Bud and the KCC Team for the opportunity to ‘give back’ and in a small way be of service to a community that has, for so long, selflessly and humbly been of service to me.


Ego, Passion, Purpose… & Gratitude:

Mountains have been a major theme throughout my life and in venturing onto their slopes and deep into their valleys, I’ve learned that these mountain journeys are as much about climbing as they are about leaning into the unknown, being comfortably uncomfortable, about growth and moving toward people and moments you can’t predict the outcome of. My goal isn’t to climb the highest mountains, scale the most difficult routes or climb in the purest form. I’m not changing the world on a grand scale with my actions. I’m not climbing for the ‘epic’. 

What I am doing however is following a passion for learning, listening and in a small way giving back. Staying true to this purpose has been ambitious and challenging and has stretched me more than any adventure I’ve ever been on. I’m grateful for those who help me on this journey. Some of these people have dazzled with their genius and art; others have shared insights on how to live. Others have devoted their life to helping others. Some have conquered mountains while others have built business empires. Some are great artists while others have entertained with their brilliant musical talents. 

One thing that all of these people have in common is that they've gently shaped the moments that make up the journey – both on and off the trail. Without the tremendous support of these people life would not be nearly as fascinating and mountains would be significantly higher. 


Jul 9, 2018

INTERVIEW with ILIVEXTREME.COM "Climbing Denali"

TAKING THE FIRST STEPS... A series of events that kicked-off a roller-coaster 10-years of adventure..! Just before I left for Denali last month, I shared a few candid insights into the literal (and proverbial) highs and lows of a life in the mountains, why I love my (desk) day-job, the "fun scale", my mountain-inspirations, failings in the kitchen and how I redeem myself through mean bloody-marys.... 

Thanks to ILIVEXTREME for the opportunity to share my story...! It was a lot of fun and I enjoyed your questions..! 

The full interview with pictures can be found via: http://ilivextreme.com/climbing-denali/

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It’s a Sunday morning in early June and I’m catching up with friend and mountaineer Heather Geluk as she sits in an airy Scandinavian-themed coffee shop in Toronto’s east side.  Born in Ridgetown, a small town in Ontario Canada, Heather and I first met a couple of years ago when I was giving a talk at the Adventure Travel Show in London and we were introduced by a mutual friend. After living in the UK for many years, she’s now back living in Canada, but not one to sit still for very long, we talk about her latest trip to climb the highest mountain peak in North America – Denali. I will be attempting Denali in 2020 after harbouring the desire to do so for the past 4 or 5 years and I’m stockpiling all of the tips in the following interview.

When and how did you first become interested in mountaineering?

Just over 10 years ago in 2008. I needed some “space” to make some big life decisions – job, boyfriend, where to live – all that chunky stuff that life throws at us from time to time! I booked a very last minute trip to Nepal to climb Mera Peak, a 6300m mountain in the Everest region. I knew very little, practically nothing about mountaineering, had zero experience, and was woefully unprepared but was fortunate to have joined an amazing team with a very patient guide. Three challenging weeks later we reached the summit of Mera Peak and I looked out and over the panorama of Himalayan giants framed against a cloudless blue sky. It was absolutely breathtaking. Looking out at Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kanchenjunga – I knew that despite everything that I’d gone through to get there, there was no place on Earth I’d rather be. And that was the beginning of a whirlwind 10 years of climbing some of the world’s highest mountains. The boyfriend was quickly forgotten, the job sorted itself out, and a new passion for seeing the world from a different perspective had taken hold.

Since that happened how has your life changed?

It has changed in countless ways. Since that trip to Mera Peak in 2008, I’ve been on over 25 significant expeditions to the highest mountains on earth including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, others in the high Himalaya, Andes and Alps. On these expeditions I’ve learned to ‘dig deep’, tapping into reserves of strength, determination and the knowledge that simply putting one foot in front of the other can achieve so much. But even before that, I’ve learned to manage training and extensive preparation around the commitments of a demanding job by honing skills in discipline, commitment, courage and creativity.

Climbing’s helped me connect to an incredible global community of people passionate about the outdoors – it’s given me a tribe and a vibe. Climbing’s been a vehicle for me to visit countries I may not otherwise have experienced – Iran, Peru, Argentina, Iceland, Morocco, Tanzania, Nepal, India, Bhutan- through interaction with people at the local level. Climbing’s also helped me to find a purpose. I feel incredibly fortunate to travel to these far-flung places. I feel a strong sense of purpose and responsibility to share this with others – either through storytelling, writing, photography, and, most importantly, for raising money for good causes. It’s my hope that in some small way my actions will help make the lives of others’ better, easier or that they’ll encourage people to step outside of their own comfort zones and achieve more than they ever dreamed possible.

Tell me about Your plan for Denali this year…

Liv! On your birthday (June 8th) I’m heading to Alaska to climb Denali. I’ve had Denali on my ‘bucket list’ for ages and knew that when I moved back to Canada I’d make it happen. And here we are. Denali will be a tough expedition – the mountain rises an icy 6,190m (20,310 feet) out of a sea of glaciers and other peaks that comprise the Alaska Range. High altitude, sub-Arctic conditions, fickle weather, unpredictable storms, steep slopes, and deep crevasses combine to make Denali one of the most difficult and severe mountains in the world. The climb will involve relaying loads of equipment over 66 kilometers (41 miles) over the course of 22 days, establishing camps and climbing slowly enough for proper acclimatization. In addition, I’ll be carrying 60 pound pack and pulling a 40 pound sled, loaded with gear to establish camps on the mountain as I prepare to get into position to summit in late June. Oh, and did I mention that the temperature will be a balmy –minus-30 degrees?


Holy crap it’s just going to be incredible isn’t it. I’m so excited for you and to hear all about it when you get back! You often embark upon these trips representing a charity..

My passion for adventure is the by-product of a love for the outdoors instilled by rural roots and an inherent sense of ‘wanderlust.’  As a kid I spent a lot of time playing outside with my brothers, getting up to all sorts of trouble. These same rural roots instilled in me the importance of community and the responsibility of playing a part to make it better. I try and use my experiences climbing the highest mountains as opportunities to inspire others and to give back to the community by raising funds and awareness to support health and wellbeing of women and babies. I organise regular treks to Kilimanjaro and Everest Base Camp to support women’s health charities. The awesome thing about these trips is that not only have we been able to raise heaps of money and awareness about the critical need for research into women’s health, they’ve also helped colleagues become friends and individuals to push themselves well and truly beyond their comfort zones.

In 2015, I was on a 8,000m mountain in a very remote part of Nepal during the devastating earthquake that killed over 9,000 people and injured over 25,000. It was an extremely challenging time physically and emotionally. I was fortunate to have survived the earthquake and subsequently spent two months in Nepal providing humanitarian support – working with local charities to support all those who had lost virtually everything.  It was my purpose to be there and help especially after the Nepalese community had shown me endless hospitality during previous trips. I helped to channel funds from the international community to local, grassroots charities and also relayed money and supplies into communities in remote mountainous regions. The memories from those months will stay with me forever and have fundamentally changed the way that I approach my life. Life is wickedly, preciously short and each and every moment should be savoured and cherished.

Who are your mountaineering idols?

Lakpa Rita Sherpa is one of the incredible people that I’ve been fortunate enough to call a friend – I’d definitely put him up there as one of my idols. Raised in Everest region of Nepal in the picturesque village of Thame, Lakpa has been professionally guiding and climbing around the world for nearly two decades. His mountaineering achievements are significant, with an astonishing 17 summits of Mt. Everest plus 22 summits of Cho-Oyu and numerous other peaks in Nepal. Lakpa was the first Sherpa and first Nepali to climb the Seven Summits and he regularly leads teams on mountains including Aconcagua, Denali and of Mount Vinson in Antarctica. He has summited Mount Rainier over 200 times and in 2013 was named one of Outside Magazine’s “Adventurers of The Year”.  He has been a friend and a constant presence for me during my many visits to Nepal, I cherish his warmth, grace and good humour. I’d put Lakpa up there on my top 5 list of the most selfless, humble, kind and softly-spoken people that I’ve ever met. Not only that but he balances this by being an incredible husband and father to his family and an active member of the Sherpa community both in his home in Seattle as well as in Nepal. In two words – Lakpa rocks.

A fellow Canadian, Isabelle Santoire is another inspirational person. She’s an inspiring athlete, ambassador and incredible teacher. On skis, on a rock face, or when meeting to discuss ambitions over a coffee in her current home in sunny Chamonix, France. She’s passionate about sharing the experiences in the mountains. Her goals are to encourage others to experience the same and go beyond their perceived physical and mental limits. It’s no surprise that Isabelle has become a local icon with her contagious smile and warm personality. But what makes her even more amazing is that not only is she a kick-ass guide (among the first female UIAGM guides), she’s also a proud mother to 2 gorgeous young children. She continues to live in the constant search for perfect balance enabling others to achieve their alpine dreams safely and spending time with her family.

Why do you think we’re so obsessed with mountaineering?

Well, it has given me purpose. Ten years ago I found myself selfishly asking, “Seriously? Is this it? Isn’t there more to life than this..?” In my heart, I knew something was missing but I didn’t know exactly what it was or what I was supposed to do to find it. Over the course of the ten years that followed – from that initial summit of Mera Peak through to today, I do my best to create and live a life filled with a deep sense of purpose, happiness whilst getting paid to do work I enjoy – and yes, I have a normal desk job and spend more hours than I care to admit doing powerpoint presentations and spread-sheets (powerpoint has become a form of self-expression!) BUT I’ve used the skills learned inside and outside of the office to attempt to make a meaningful impact in the world.

I also truly believe that everything we do and everyone we meet along this life-journey is put in our path for a reason. I know that sounds a bit ‘whimsical’ but I genuinely believe it. There are no accidents; we’re all teachers – if we’re willing to pay attention to the lessons and trust our instincts, we learn. This means not being afraid to take risks and not wait for some miracle to come knocking.  It’s hard work and can be scary at times but this perspective has given me the most tremendous appreciation for life and has helped to turn moments of uncertainty, confusion and discomfort into opportunity.

When do you get up to when you’re not at altitude?

When I’m not climbing a mountains, I’m helping organisations climb proverbial mountains.  My “day job” is as a communications and change management consultant in downtown Toronto. I love the contrast between life as a consultant and the mountains. I’ve realised that I can’t do one without the other – I’m a better consultant because I climb. I’m a better climber because I’m a consultant.

How have you been training for Denali?

I grew up playing team sports and have always had a good level of fitness. Having said that, I’m terrible at motivating myself and can usually find about 10 different things on my never-ending-procrastination-to-do-list as an excuse to avoid going to the gym – washing the dishes, doing laundry, ironing suddenly seem so much more appealing!

Unfortunately, I do need to be fit both mentally and physically travel to and survive  and most importantly ENJOY climbing in these far-flung and remote environments. Interestingly, boxing has been a fantastic fitness vehicle for me to prepare to head into the mountains. The training sessions that I’ve been involved in between the UK and Canada have provided a group-environment that is individual (yet team) oriented, intense, and affordable, under the guidance of amazing instructors and surrounded by a fantastic network of support.

There have been thick books written about training for climbs. Above and beyond the fitness aspects covered in these books, it’s also important to mention the importance of taking time out give yourself some TLC – your body is your most important tool so nurture it. Eat good, healthy and non-processed foods, eat 3 meals per day, get enough sleep and take time out away from the devices to relax your mind, listen to some music, go for a walk in a forest, listen to the birds, read a book… and… just… chill.

Other than Alaska, where else is on your destination list?

I’d love to travel to see the fjords of Norway and also to see the granite towers and icebergs of Patagonia.  Both appeal for the jaw-dropping beauty and the fragility of their environments.

What would you say to someone getting into climbing?

Climbing is fun. And fun, like anything, can be nuanced; not all fun is created equal.

I learned about the ‘fun scale’ from a guide and friend Zac whilst climbing in Scotland about 10 years ago and it’s helped me to rationalise climbing and the  ‘pain caves’ I find myself in from time to time. Anyone I’ve met and spoken to about climbing will know my views on the fun scale….

Type I Fun – It’s enjoyable while it’s happening and elicits an immediate reaction from endorphins. Quite simply, it’s fun. Good fun doing things we love to do. Scrumptious food, meaty red wine, powder skiing, sex (sometimes!), margaritas beside the pool with friends, happy hours on the dock….

Type II Fun – It’s miserable while it’s happening, but fun in retrospect – I call it the ‘rose tinted glasses’ effect. When you look back at the misery and discomfort, and forget how truly awful it was and you want to go through the ‘fun’ again.  Type II fun generally starts with the best of intentions and then things go sideways. You go from a scale of, ‘This is awesome and fun!’ and eventually get to the point of, “WTF. I’m SO over this”. Examples include doing an ironman, setting out on a long bike-ride, working out till you puke, and, usually, ice and alpine climbing.

When Zac told me about Type II fun we were on Ben Nevis doing  winter skills training. It was getting dark and we were due back at our refuge for dinner. I was stuck on a precariously exposed ledge with about 200m of air below my frozen feet, my goggles were fogging up, I’d lost feeling in my fingers about an hour before, visibility was zero, winds were howling around us and spindrift was pouring down from the upper reaches of the mountain and into my jacket. I can’t put into words how cold, awful and uncomfortable and stressed I was. On a scale of 1 – 10 I was deep in the negative digits. “Why on earth would anyone in their right mind EVER want to do this” is pretty much how I felt (insert expletives as appropriate!!).

By the time we reached the refuge and two bites into the world’s best lasagne drinking the worlds best wine, my tune had changed: “Ya know, that wasn’t so bad. What are we doing tomorrow?”

Type III Fun – this type of fun is not fun at all. Not even in retrospect. Afterward, you think, “What in the hell was I doing / thinking? If I ever come up with another idea that stupid, somebody shake some sense into me.”  Fortunately I don’t have too many of these experiences – and when I do I like to think of them as ‘character building’. Examples include one or two work-related projects I’ve been on, moving house, a failed relationship that lacked Type I fun. Shudder!

If you could choose one moment from your life to go back and re-experience, which would it be?

The moment I’d love to re-experience is coming down into Everest Base Camp after summiting Lhotse, an 8516m mountain in Nepal in late May, 2013. This was a ‘Type 2 fun’ experience. The descent from Lhotse was hard and scary. The extreme altitude, cold, rock-fall and exhaustion all contributed to a precarious and dangerous descent down the steep and icy Lhotse Face into Camp 2 at 6300m. My legs were so tired they felt detached from my body. I remember literally crawling into my tent and being so tired that I couldn’t sleep. But I was alive. And I’d summited. And so did my entire team. But none of that had really sunk in yet.

The next morning I summoned all of my strength and we made our way the final 700m down into Everest Base Camp.  I was climbing with a fabulous team from Adventure Consultants and as we rounded one of the final corners coming into camp we were met by a ‘Welcome Party’ made up of some of the incredible team of guides, base-camp managers and Sherpas. They were ringing bells, beating kitchen-pans with wooden spoons, singing, dancing with the HUGEST smiles on their faces. And cold beers. It was incredible. We totally partied. I struggle to even describe how my heart was filled with gratitude and happiness that day (and ‘great’ is SUCH an understatement). I get emotional just thinking about it. Definitely one of the best days of my life shared with an incredible group of friends. I’d do anything to relive that day.

What do you wish you could do better?

I wish I could cook. I’m terrible. But I make a mean Bloody Mary.

What’s the most ‘extreme’ thing you’ve ever done?

The most extreme thing I’ve ever done – that’s a tough one! My mind initially goes to the Himalayas but I think that the most extreme thing I’ve ever done is cycle 7500 across Canada over the course of 72 days – on a whim and without training… It was nuts (on hindsight and a good example of Type 2 fun) but awesome beyond words.  Definitely one of the best but maddest experiences of my life.

After that I’d have to say ‘online dating’. I’m still trying to determine what kind of fun that is..!!

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You can follow Heather and her Denali climb progress on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter – She’s climbing Denali for the follow charities Wellbeing of Women (UK) and Women’s College hospital (Canada) she has also been sponsored on this particular summit attempt by Black Diamond Equipment, Arc’teryx and SUUNTO Fitness.

Jun 10, 2018

Destination Denali: "You're off to great places, today is your day! Your mountain is waiting so get on your way!"

You're off to great places,
Today is your day!
Your mountain is waiting, 
So... get on your way..!
-Dr. Seuss, Oh the Places You'll Go

A few final thoughts as I drag a heavy bag out the door and onto Anchorage, Alaska and then 90 miles north to the town of Talkeetna and the flanks of Denali! I've put project management skills into overdrive and my bags are parked at the front door waiting to whisked away on this adventure..! 
There are plenty of emotions going around in my head ranging from – “OMG what did I get myself into?” to the adrenaline rush you get when you stand on the cusp of the unknown and prepare to leap... 

Soon this journey will 'formally' begin... and I can't wait..! 
The biggest challenge on this expedition has been making the decision to ‘go for it’. Stepping out of your comfort zone, finding your purpose, and following it through – this is often more daunting than the mountains we find ourselves on. But the glory is in the journey – the lessons learned and the people you meet along the way - and the place that we leave in the world as a result. 
Climbing a mountain like Denali is no different to many of the challenges we aim to overcome in our lives. Whether starting a new job, mending a broken relationship, fighting an illness or stepping outside of our comfort zones, we’re all climbing mountains of sorts. These experiences require us to be stronger than we think we are, endure more than we think we can, and become more than we dreamed possible. 

It’s always my hope when setting out on these slightly mad adventures that I can make a small difference in the world. And I have all of YOU to thank for helping me to do this..!


Before leaving a few "Thank You's"…

A huge thank you to my friends:

Thank you to my friends - for your kindness and patience. You're the best and I really, really can't wait to have a very large margarita with you all on a very sunny, hot patio this summer.

Thank you to the Reaching New Heights for Women's Health expedition Partners:

A huge thank you to Women's College Hospital Foundation and Wellbeing of Women: 

Thank you Shannon and the entire team at Women's College Hospital Foundation. We spent a lot of time talking about the importance of 'purpose' earlier this year - which has been incredibly helpful in my journey to 'settling' here in Toronto. Learning about the research and ambulatory care provided through the hospital has been eye-opening and I can't wait to continue working with you and your team to provide continued research into the health and wellbeing of women.
Thank you Asha and the entire team at Wellbeing of Women. We've been on these crazy adventures for a while now and I am so grateful for your continued motivation...! 

A huge thank you to my family:

Thank you to my family - for the spirit of adventure that I'm certain I inherited from you.... although there is some disagreement about which side of the family it actually comes from..! I know how much you worry about me but, in the same breath, totally stand behind and support everything that I do. And for that I’ll be forever grateful.

A tremendous thank you to YOU!

A final thank you to everyone who has kindly and generously donated to Women’s College Hospital and Wellbeing of Women. On behalf of the charities, Thank You.

If you haven't donated but wish to support these charities it's not too late..! The links are below: 

Next stop - Denali!

“So be sure when you step, Step with care and great tact. And remember that life's A Great Balancing Act. And will you succeed? Yes! You will, indeed! (98 and ¾ percent guaranteed) Kid, you'll move mountains.” 
― Dr. Seuss, Oh, The Places You'll Go!

** I will not have access to communications whilst on the mountain so all updates from 11 June will be provided via: http://www.alaskamountaineeringschool.blogspot.com **
The team name is “10 June Expedition with Wes” 

Please wish us luck and see you in July!!