Hoodies, Bisons, Diamonds, Traverses and Wipes - All you ever wanted to know about expedition gear

Toronto is known for a lot of things - the CN Tower, its vibrant food scene, the ROM and an abundance of hipster coffee shops. Unfortunately (for me) it’s not exactly famous as the mountaineering mecca of the world. You’re more likely to find a pair of Gucci heels or an Alexander McQueen gown within a ten kilometer radius than a pair of high-altitude boots – Mountain Equipment Co-Op excepted of course! 

This makes preparing for the -40-degrees conditions expected Denali an interesting challenge. Kit can make or break an expedition.  A thought provoking article by Gear-Guy, Douglas Gantenbein of Outside Online put things in perspective:

“I want you to take off your shoes and socks…. Then, hold your feet and hands out in front of you, where you can see them. Now, for each digit, assign a dollar value. Take your time. What’s that pinkie worth? $100? A big toe? $250? Think hard. Don’t think this exercise odd—you are doing it right now. You are hoping to save a few hundred dollars on gear. And in doing so, you are weighing those dollars against body parts.”

SO, given the above response from Gear-Guy and our shared appreciation for digits, it goes without saying that I’ve become slightly obsessive about gear for Denali. This leads me to a quote from the legend that is Sir Ranulph Fiennes, “There is no bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.” As a farmer’s daughter, I also know that there’s little point in worrying about the weather – but there are definitely things that you can do to prepare for it.

I’ve highlighted a few key pieces that I’ll be taking with me – many are tried and tested from previous expeditions but some are new and reflect huge advancements in kit technology. I can’t help but admire mountaineering pioneers such as George Leigh-Mallory, Andrew Irvine and George Ingle Finch, wearing wool socks, gaberdine jackets and leather boots on the slopes of Mt. Everest in the early 1920s… 

Base-layers – This is a key layer requiring plenty of planning and it's layer that I’ll never take off. Given conditions on Denali, I mean NEVER take off. Like, for the full 3+ weeks. Features I look for when choosing base layers are fabrics that wick moisture from my skin. Fabric technology (yes, there is such a thing) that has evolved includes air permeable fleeces with voided grid construction. When looking at base layers, I look for designs that are women-specific, articulated to move with the body, and layer easily. Hoods on base layers are a personal choice – I personally love them as they’re an extra layer under a helmet and some even have integrated panels that can be worn as a neck gaiter or balaclava. Arc’teryx’s Konseal Hoody is a great example of this. 

On my legs I’ll wear Rho AR bottoms, by Arc’teryx. They’re a versatile mid-weight, insulated tight.

Mid-layer jacket - Cerium LT – Arc’teryx -  I’m slightly obsessed with this mid-layer jacket by Arc-teryx. The Cerium LT is by far the lightest, most compressible and warmest mid-layer down jacket that I’ve come across and a reflection of some great product design. Arc'teryx used synthetic insulation in targeted areas that would most likely see moisture. The water-resistant shell sheds any light moisture that would otherwise rob the lofty down of its insulating properties. Think of it as a perfect jacket for a cool winters’ day or, if you’ve got plans to be trekking, hiking — and therefore sweating — in the dry, cold mountain air. I suspect it will become a permanent fixture on my body until early July.

Crampons – Black Diamond Sabertooth – Now we’re talking tools. When I think of crampons I smile because it means that I’m planning to have some fun. At 910 grams (yes, this is important!), Black Diamond Sabertooth crampons have been my "go-to's" for Scotland, the Alps, Andes and Himalaya. They’re excellent all-arounders perfect for difficult mixed terrain, mountain travel and steep ice. Stainless steel keeps them light. I’m smiling just thinking about them as I type.

Gloves – Black Diamond  Guide Glove & Mercury Mitts – t

hanks to a winter adventure gone-wrong with my brothers as a 7-year old, my hands are my Achilles heel. I had frost nip at a very young age which has made my hands extremely susceptible to the cold. Emotionally scarred by the experience, I’m petrified of having cold hands so the anxiety is mitigated by an investment into a solid glove / mitt system. My hands-down favourite (excuse the pun) for extreme conditions are BD Guide Gloves and BD Mercury Mitts. Both are designed to fend off seriously cold and ugly conditions with tough outer fabrics, and wool pile liners. Dexterous enough that you can fiddle with your bindings, zippers, and gear without having to take them off, yet warm enough to take the edge off the coldest of days. 

Harness  - Black Diamond Couloir -  Function over fashion….! Literally. A harness should fit over bulky clothing. Adjustable leg loops are key for changing pants and navigating through impromptu stops. From tests with a few different brands my preference is the Black Diamond Couloir for its simplicity and ease of wear with a pack. .

Boots – LaSportiva Olympus Mons – Not quite Jimmy Choo’s but nearly as expensive and not quite as practical on a Friday night in downtown Toronto. Going back to Gear-Guys passion for digits, the Olympus Mons are investment I’ve been happy to make. This will be my 5th major outing for my Olympus Mons and I absolutely love them. At 2.26kgs (yes, I weighed them) it’s a great superlight double boot with an insulated inner boot. The thermo-reflective outer boot layers on warmth, and a durable gaiter with Kevlar (yes, bullet proof) reinforcements, making it perfect for conditions on the Alaska Range as well as the peaks in the high Himalaya. 

Sleeping Bag – Western Mountaineering – Bison – Think of it as a high end duvet from Wayfair at around the same price-point – just with more colors, a hood and rated to a balmy -40 degrees F (minus 30 – 40 degrees C). The aptly named Bison is a mummy-style sleeping bag with 4–lbs (~2 kilos) or more of high loft down My sleeping bag serves as a “locker” for storing water bottles, batteries, liner boots, and anything else that needs to not freeze. From experience, my sleeping bag is about 30% “Best Buy” electronics and 70% me. 

Altimeter – Suunto smart-watch technology – I am a bit of a tech-geek and have been

making the most of the leaps and bounds made by companies like Suunto when it comes to smart-watches. Ten years ago I bought my first Suunto Core – it had the ‘core’ features I needed – altimeter, time, light and alarm. With the rise of smart-technologies and integration with fitness, Suunto has come forward with leaps and bounds. Whilst I use a Suunto 3 Fitness to track my day to day activities (e.g. steps, training, health stats - and yes, even boxing!) I’ll be using the Suunto Traverse on Denali. The Traverse uses the same features as my much beloved Core PLUS it’s also equipped with a digital compass, barometer, thermometer, altimeter and GPS tracking and navigation features.

Toiletries – Interestingly, we’ll be experiencing 24hrs of daylight on Denali – so the much feared cold of the early hours of the morning (think bitterly cold alpine starts) is slightly averted. I've stocked up on sunscreen in stick format as anything liquid / crème will freeze in the sub-arctic conditions. My go-to is Sun-Bum.. "cause you gotta trust the bum."

Many people ask about washing. For those eating lunch, you have my permission to stop reading now. Truth be told, we won’t be showering for the full 3 – 4 weeks… BUT, anyone who's spent any time with me outdoors knows my secret weapon. It’s a product which, despite the name which induces blushes even in hypoxic conditions (apologies to male readers!) is THE best kept secret for outdoor activities. Ten years ago I discovered a brand of individually wrapped ‘wet-wipes’ called, ‘I Love My Muff’ in a swanky little London salon. Intrigued, I contacted the Canadian-company and received said sample ‘muff wipe’. I tested them on Everest and they were amazing. Wait. That’s an understatement. They were game changing.... 

Eyebrows were raised by my male-dominated team but it wasn’t long before I received humble requests from the same male teammates* for said ‘muff wipe(s)’ and the sweet aromas of cucumber, chamomile flower, and lavender were soon wafting across camp. Beautifully smelling they are vegan, free of parabens, synthetic colors and fragrances. They're made in Canada with pure essential oils and are non-toxic, biodegradable and feel luxurious to use. And you can buy them here:  https://ilovemymuff.com/products/fresh-wipes  You’re welcome. 

And on that high note, and before I geek out any further I’ll end this blog here! I hope it's been insightful. I've benefited tremendously from the experiences and recommendations from others and would be happy to play it forward - so please feel free to get in touch! 

*no egos were harmed in the writing of this blog.

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So what's next?

In 3 days I depart for Alaska to brave severe conditions to climb the tallest mountain in North America – Denali via its notoriously challenging west buttress route. Located 130 miles north of Anchorage, Alaska, Denali rises an icy 6,190m (20,310 feet) out of a sea of glaciers and other peaks that comprise the Alaska Range. 

High altitude, sub-Arctic conditions, fickle weather, unpredictable storms, steep slopes, and deep crevasses combine to make Denali one of the most difficult and severe mountains in the world. The climb will involve relaying loads of equipment over 66 kilometers (41 miles) in 22 days, establishing camps and climbing slowly enough for proper acclimatization. In addition, I'll be carrying a 60 pound pack and pull a 40 pound sled, loaded with gear to establish camps on the mountain as I prepare to get into position to summit in late June. 
So, if you've read all the way down of this article - brilliant and thank you (!) - I hope that you'll consider taking a quick minute to make a small donation to support lifesaving research.

Wellbeing of Women (UK): https://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/WellbeingofWomenDenali


Women's College Hospital (Canada): http://wchf.convio.net/site/TR?fr_id=1160&pg=entry

I'm taking on this challenge to raise funds and awareness for two incredible charities My goal is to raise $2,000 for Women's College Hospital (Canada) and 2,000 GBP for Wellbeing of Women (UK) to help fund critical and lifesaving research into cancers impacting the health and wellbeing of women and their families. All donations - no matter how big or small - are tremendously appreciated. 

THANK YOU so much!

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The Diva in Down on Tunics in Teheran...

I've worked hard to establish my reputation as 'the diva in down'. A critical component in maintaining this title (as many have tried to steal my crown...) is an expedition wardrobe packing routine based on trial and error (and too many fashion faux-pas to mention)… I pack my ‘go-to’ favourite t-shirt, favourite matching knitted Sherpa hats, favourite Striders Edge base layer, favourite Sherpa down jacket, favourite hard-shell waterproof and, more recently have added a favourite soft shell to my ensemble. Everything can be ‘mixed and matched’, can be worn together or separately, is easily washable and can go weeks (maybe even months!) without compromising the Channel No.5 infusion.... Throw in a post-expedition dress (something floaty and feminine to wear to facilitate integration back into civilisation) and then that’s my kit-sorted. I call it shabby-chic a la diva-in-down. 

Ironically, there’s little by way of packing list that differentiates a 5 day expedition from a 50 day expedition.

Having this routine means that I only need to ‘top up’ with new pieces from time to time as fabric technologies are introduced and as colours and styles are upgraded from one season to the next. This saves money, time and makes packing a relatively straightforward and predictable task. 

Iran has thrown a spanner in the works.... 

I honestly can’t remember the last time I was so worried about an expedition wardrobe... 

The cynics among you may say that I should be worried about more than my wardrobe, heading to the Islamic Republic of Iran.

Fashion Sense...

The advice I’ve received on dress code for Iran is a long tunic that covers the body (especially the butt), with long sleeves (no bare arms), long trousers that cover the ankles and close-toed shoes… 

I also have to wear a ‘hijab’. Ever since the Islamic Revolution in 1979, it has been illegal for a woman to leave the house without wearing a headscarf. The punishment ranges from a fine to imprisonment… Given how challenging it was to get a visa, I don't fancy pushing my luck in this department.

Over the past two weeks I’ve been into and out of nearly every high-street store on Oxford Street - Zara, New Look, H&M, Miss Selfridge, Monsoon, Primark, Hobbs, Reiss, Dorothy Perkins, Ted Baker… and then countless visits to Selfridges. Market research told me that Harrods would also be a strong contender. I have googled, ‘Iran Streetwear’ so often that my Facebook feed is now written arabic script. In the past two weeks I’ve tried on more tunics and kaftans and floaty coats than I’ve had warm dinners. 

I have stood in front of hundreds of mirrors speaking to hundreds of store changing-room attendants asking things like; 

‘Does this cover my butt?’, ‘Can you tell I have an um...errr.... shape?’  'Does this come with a matching scarf?’ ‘Is this too revealing?’ and my all time favourite, ‘Do you have this in black?’ 

I’m exceptionally lucky as most high street 2014 Autumn / Winter collections feature variations of the tunic - bright tunics, flowery tunics, bold tunics, short sleeve tunics, long sleeve tunics… you get my drift. The slight concern however is that it’s 40 degrees centigrade in Teheran and linen and cotton are preferable over heavy wool and cashmere. Normally when it’s 40 degrees I’m poolside, lathered in SPF 40 with a daiquiri in hand and not tunic-ed up in wool drinking a yogurt lassi on a street side cafe…

I doubt I'll ever embrace the look with the same passion as Dame Judy Dench, but can certainly see the versatility of the tunic… you can eat McDonalds burgers and Crispy-Creme donuts  to your hearts content, you can hide VPL, you could be 8 months pregnant and no one would be the wiser.

Because I’m shopping both for my Iran and post-Iran tunic look at the same time, investment has taken some extensive consideration. It’s been incredibly hard to discover and define what my ‘tunic’ style is… I like the shapeless, floaty-look but at the same time, I know how finicky fashion can be and I’m afraid that this ‘look’ will be ‘Sooo 2-0-1-4 by December… and then I”ll be stuck with a wardrobe that I’ll only ever be able to wear again if I’m either pregnant or going to an all-you-can-eat buffet.

This story does have a happy ending... 

I bought a lovely floaty black and white printed tunic (worryingly a little bit sheer) that can be worn with a floaty black cardigan (to hide the sheer element of the tunic) and a very baggy pair of drawstring jersey trousers… Not only is the outfit ‘Iran street-friendly’ but I can also eventually belt-it and wear it to London Fashion Week with jeans and a smart pair of heels in London. I also bought a versatile long black shirt that can be worn on the mountain over a t-shirt - perfect for travel along the dusty roads. Finally, I made a bit of an investment today on a long-sleeve plum-coloured tunic at COS that is very on-trend. It’s made of a cotton blend but the back is silk and buttoned from top to bottom. If the button-look is judged too risqué I can just layer the floaty jacket over top….

Now to find a hajib to match my down jacket….

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"After this my first mountain ascent..." (Re)introducing mountaineering pioneer, explorer, adventurer George Ingle Finch

I love this quote by the legendary George Ingle Finch... It captures the passion and ingenuity behind the tremendous achievements of early Everest pioneers. My personal all-time favourite character is George Ingle Finch of the 1922 Everest expedition under General Charles Granville Bruce to Mount Everest.  I'm reminded of Finchs' antics, achievements, creativity and the history of mountaineering on a regular basis thanks to the inside label of my cosy CHUCS down vest... Finch invented the down jacket and was one of the first to use supplemental oxygen on Everest...!  Little did he know what a trend-setter he (like his father, Peter Finch and grandson, Charles Finch) would turn out to be..!

On 23 May 1922 Finch and Captain C. Geoffrey Bruce reached an altitude of 27,300 feet (8,321 m) on the north ridge of Mount Everest. 

George Ingle Finch at Everest Base Camp (1922)

Actor Peter Finch, son of George Ingle Finch

Inside the CHUCS in London on Dover Street
Combining Hollywood glamour with adventure!

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The People You Meet: Charles Finch, Entrepreneur, Media Maverick & Founder of CHUCS Dive and Mountain Shop

You could be forgiven for thinking that the words 'glamour' and 'adventure' don’t often make it into the same sentence – let alone the same mountain wardrobe. But, thanks to Charles Finch, entrepreneur, media mavrick and founder of CHUCS Dive and Mountain Shop we can all now look as stylish on the beach – or hiking through the mountains – as we do in the boardroom. After all, as Chucs says, ‘A man’s finest hour is often not in the office or the boardroom, but on he sports field, the hill and at sea!’

Over the past 1.5 years I have had the pleasure of working with Charles Finch, the founder of CHUCS Dive and Mountain Shop and his fantastic team on Dover Street. Charles takes inspiration for his collection of 'mountainwear' and 'beachwear' at CHUCS from his unique and colourful family heritage which spans generations of explorers, scoundrels, actors and inventors..... 

CHUCS’ ‘Dive collection' is infused with unparalleled style based on memories of family holidays in Jamaica where his father, legendary Academy Award winning actor Peter Finch, and pals Errol Flynn, Ian Fleming, Noel Coward and Ian Pringle together formed the nexis of Caribbean elegance. 

CHUCS’ ‘Mountain collection', on the other hand, reflects Charles’ direct personal history with Mount Everest. I have Charles Finch’s grandfather, George Ingle-Finch to thank for my warm down filled jacket (and hence the title of this blog!).

Whilst he was no ‘Diva in Down’, Australian-born George Ingle Finch, referred to by George Mallory as 'Finchie’ was known as much for his sartorial style as for his climbing flair. He invented the ‘puffa’ or down filled jacket before ascending Mount Everest via the NE Ridge with George Mallory in 1922. Whilst they did not reach the allusive summit on the expedition, this historic climb is cemented in the record books as it was the first mountaineering expedition to breach the 8000m barrier and proved to be excellent ‘reconnaissance’ for the 1924 expedition with George Mallory and Andrew Irvine. Finch also wrote a brilliant book, "The Making of a Mountaineer' of his adventures - a book which features prominently on my bookshelf..!

More importantly (and yet another thing that I will be thanking George Finch for in just over a few weeks time) was that George Ingle Finch was the first person to use oxygen whilst at high altitude. Critics thought this was cheating and believed smoking cigarettes would provide greater benefits than supplemental oxygen. This would certainly have changed the nature of Everest Summit photos and the ‘warning labels’ on a pack of Camels. Whilst George never made it to the summit of Everest, he remained an inventor and explorer and his ideas were often realised and accepted years after his own experiments.

“After this, my first mountain ascent, I had made up my mind to see the world, to see it from above, from the tops of mountains”. - George Ingle Finch, 1922

In 2005, Charles founded Finch & Partners creating a London and Paris based media company representing and advising global luxury brands, entertainment companies, celebrated individuals, nation states, and philanthropic organisations on all aspects of image from public relations, brand development, product endorsement and placement, to events and marketing. In 2011, Charles Finch took inspiration from his grandfather and opened CHUCS Dive and Mountain Shop. Ultimately CHUCS Dive and Mountain shop provides the discerning traveller with everything required for a trip to the beach, mountain or hunting lodge…

If you were to go on an expedition for 2 months and hand-pick a team of individuals to be on your team, who would you pick and why?

Charles: If I was about to go on a two month expedition I would take George Ingle-Finch - for obvious reasons..! I'd also add Graham Greene, one of the greatest novelists of the 20th century, to the team because his ambition was to make love behind every alter in every cathedral in Europe. Errol Flynn would also be on the expedition team because he'd be fun. I'd have Michael Sandberg onboard as my personal physician and Daniele, the chef from the Delfino restaurant in Positano would certainly be cooking all of our meals!!

What is the biggest mountain that you've ever climbed - either figuratively or literally?

Charles: Mont Blanc!

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A huge thank you to CHUCS for sharing with me their rich history and for keeping me comfortable (and stylish!) while on the mountain..! The only caveat is, next time I decide to ‘explore often’, please remind me to focus on the ‘dive’ rather than the 'mountain' - a beach holiday, a bikini, espadrilles (and a mojito) are pretty appealing at the moment!!

Live Well. Stand Tall. Give Freely. Explore Often.  CHUCS DIVE AND MOUNTAIN SHOP

CHUCS Dive and Mountain Shop

31 Dover Street, London

http://www.chucs.com

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The People You Meet: The Royal Mail Postman bearing gifts of mountain kit

One of the more random people that I’ve met along the way of in this crazy mountaineering journey is my friendly local Royal Mail postman. Central London isn’t exactly the mountaineering mecca of the world and you’d have a much easier time finding a pair of Gucci heels or Alexander McQueen gown within a ten mile radius than a pair of high-altitude boots and a matching down suit. So, needless to say, I can now add ‘online shopping’ to my extensive CV alongside being able to light an epigas stove above 7000m and set up an altitude tent in the comforts of my bedroom.

Over the course of past expeditions I’ve learned to pack ‘lite’…. Generally this equates to 1 x ‘stuffed to the max’ 110 litre duffle bag complete with equipment duct-taped to the shoulder straps and bottles training from the frame… I look more like bulky yak trying to navigate Heathrow Airport check in lines than a fashion-conscious traveller trying to schmooze my way into business class. There are times when fashion comes second to function – and packing for Makalu (or any big mountain for that matter!) is a prime example of one of those cases.

Packing for Makalu presents an interesting predicament – I finished packing last night. In a state of panic at the sight of the mountain of bags in my front room, I spent my morning writing to JET Airways grovelling for (a) an upgrade AND / OR (b) a *tiny bit* of excess baggage allowance above and beyond the permitted 30kgs.  I have about 45 kilos… of...um... essentials.

When I look at the ‘snapshot’ of kit below, I can’t help but admire (yet again!) early mountaineering pioneers such as George Leigh-Mallory and stand in awe of their achievements wearing wool socks, gaberdine jackets and leather boots..!! Climbing isn’t just about going up and down a mountain. It’s the culmination of years of planning, testing new equipment, getting to know your equipment, and the 'i' word... investment....

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Jimmy Choo, meet Millet Everest

I can't say that I've ever been a 'fashionista' but I do recognise the difference between 'fashion' and 'fashion-faux-pas'. I'm sad to say that on Cho Oyu I will not be receiving any Vogue-style-points or make it onto any 'Best Dressed' lists in the glossy pages of Hello and Grazia magazine over the course of the expedition... 

I will even go as far as to pre-warn you that I will fall victim to the 'fashion-faux-pas to end all faux-pas'... "Crocs with Socks" (followed a close second by sandles with socks... *shudder*...). 

Having said that I have come to appreciate the true utilitarian quality of the not-so-fashionable mountain hardwear and have embraced with giant, down clad arms the advances in climbing technology since the original ‘puffa jacket’ was developed by George Ingle-Finch in the 1920s and since George Mallory and Andrew Irvine set out for eternal Everest glory in their hob-nail boots.

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