The Mile High Club...

Crazy, vivid, trippy dreams. Over the past week I’ve dreamt that I lost my wallet in my wardrobe and got married in my living room wearing a beige-coloured veil made out of a shower curtain and that a tornado ripped through central London with all the drama of The Wizard of Oz… 

Yep, I’m sleeping high.

But training low.

Vivid dreams have been an entertaining side-effect of my move back into an unconventional yet recurring annual feature in my bedroom – a Hypoxico ‘altitude tent’. Sadly, I don’t live in the Swiss Alps and I don’t have a hot ski-instructor named Frans or Hans to house me in a luxurious high mountain chalet, feed me cheese fondue and take me skiing <sigh>. Regrettably I am restricted to finding more creative ways to prepare my body for another 2-month adventure to the higher altitudes of the Nepal Himalaya. No mountain to climb and no plane ticket required – yet!

Made of special grade nylon with 4 clear vinyl windows, the ‘altitude tent’ houses my mattress and is erected over my bed. By sleeping in this 'simulated altitude environment' I am able to benefit from some of the positive adaptations to altitude while continuing to go to 'carry on my normal life' – continuing to work, train, and socialise at an oxygen-rich lower altitude.  

What’s involved?
A small machine the size of a beer-fridge (the 'hypoxic air generator') which sounds like a low-decibel lawnmower is connected to the ‘tent’ by an 8 foot long umbilical-cord-like clear plastic hose which pumps the low oxygen controlled air into the tent. The resulting rhythmic ‘whoosh, whoosh, whoosh’ sound makes it seem a bit like I’m sharing a bed with Darth Vadar (now that would be a trippy dream…)

After crawling inside the plastic bubble, rearranging numerous throw pillows and then zipping up my contained environment, it doesn’t take long before you start feeling like you’re sitting at Everest Base Camp, on the summit of Kilimanjaro or atop the Grand Teton, minus the biting wind, bitter cold, mountain vistas, exhaustion, vertigo, and… the problem of getting down…

Understanding the Physiology

Besides the crazy vivid dreams associated with ‘sleeping high’, one of the most rewarding side effects of my high altitude experiences over the years has been the opportunity to better understand my own physiology and the changes that are taking place within my body as I 'go to altitude' – whether that’s on a mountain or in an altitude tent. 

In the past I’ve ‘moved into’ the tent between 6-8 weeks before an expedition but because I was on Kilimanjaro at 5895m just over a week ago I’m trying to ‘keep’ the positive physiological benefits derived from going to this altitude until I head to Nepal.

Understanding the Physics

It’s a common misconception to think that there is less oxygen at altitude - but this is false as the mix of gases in the air is the same. Instead the higher up you go the air pressure gets lower. Consequently the partial pressure of oxygen is reduced. An altitude tent does not copy this change in pressure. Instead it pumps refined air with a reduced oxygen content into a confined space – e.g. the tent.

The body responds to the reduced oxygen content in the space by increasing the efficiency of oxygen intake from the lungs and oxygen transport in the blood through the production of more red blood cells. This takes place mainly during rest. This is known as ‘acclimatisation’ and gives the blood better oxygen-carrying capacity – e.g. it makes it more efficient. 

It takes the body more than two weeks to produce new red-blood cells and the positive effects of acclimatisation generally lasts between 10 days to two weeks.

I must admit, I’d prefer pre-acclimatising high in the Swiss Alps but I’ve learned that in life (in this crazy world of high altitude mountaineering) you have to learn to make compromises… Until then it’s just me and my Darth Vadar sleeping sidekick preparing for the adventure ahead.

If you're interested in altitude training or have questions about how altitude training can boost your performance at altitude or for long-distance events (eg. marathons, cycling, etc.) give The Altitude Centre a call - or better yet, pay them a visit at one of their fantastic gyms. 

enquiries@altitudecentre.com

www.altitudecentre.com

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Huaraz: The mountains are calling and we must go...

Yesterday I found myself hurtling, knuckles white with fear and exhilaration, down a narrow dirt track in the shadow of some of the most stunning scenery that I've seen in a while... snow capped mountains stretching far into the valleys below, paths lined with pre-Incan ruins on a radiant blue-bird day. I was in Huaraz - a village that I'd long heard about for its friendly mountain feel and its reputation as the gateway to the Cordillera Blanca and all that it has to offer. And I was on a full-suspension mountain bike... not quite the traditional acclimatisation process but effective none the less.

We had arrived in Huaraz on Sunday evening after a long 8-hour bus journey out of Lima. The early hours of the bus journey were monotonous (a term I don't use lightly) as the brown-grey colour of the shanty-towns and rural villages blended with the dull grey sky. It wasn't pretty but I knew that Peru was simply holding back, waiting to deliver. And deliver it did.

As we approached the foothills the sky suddenly began to break and the rays of sunlight began to add colour the ground below, bringing out vibrant greens, highlighting the pinks and illuminating the mountain streams trickling out of the rock which lined the road. Switchback after switchback led us to an altitude of 3800m where we crossed a mountain pass and another valley opened up below.

We were pressed to the windows of our comfortable van, taking pictures and getting increasingly excited about the adventure ahead. We'd only met that morning - a small team of 6 including 2 guides from Ecuador, US, Canada and the UK and yet our shared excitement and anticipation about working together in the coming weeks had already created a bond.

Huaraz is the restless capital of this Andean adventure kingdom and, as yesterdays morning breakfast revealed, its rooftops command exhaustive panoramas of the city's dominion: one of the most impressive mountain ranges in the world. It certainly lived up to its reputation as a trekking metropolis (think of a cross between Mendoza, Kathmandu and Chamonix) - dozens of adventure tour operators line the streets to help plan trips, rent equipment and organise a list of adventure sports as long as your arm. Adding to this (perhaps the icing on the cake) are dozens of fantastic restaurants which offer a global range of cuisine with Peruvian charm.

Our guest house is absolutely stunning. A small, spotlessly clean bed and breakfast called Olazas - friendly, cozy, beautifully decorated with a spectacular roof-top terrace. My heaven. And to make the guest house even more perfect, it offers mountain bike tours of the Cordillera Blanca... Even if I wasn't here to climb a mountain I'd certainly consider coming back just to relax, explore and soak in the spectacular panorama over one of their delicious breakfasts.

Being a team made up of 5 men (and me!), we couldn't help but let our adventurous side get the better of us yesterday as we loaded up a van with bikes and prepared to acclimatise by heading up into the higher altitudes. We cycled breathlessly through the amazing terrain and held on for our lives... a few of the boys went off to a slightly more 'hardcore' track but me, feeling particularly comfortable with the amount of risk I was already taking in advance of a significant climb, decided to take things easy and stay on the 'straight forward' terrain - which did have its share of single track sections, mud, and rock-laden downhills. It's been ages since I was last on a mountain bike - 6 years in fact - and this brief taster certainly reminded me of why I love the sport.

And here we are today - gorgeously sunny Tuesday morning. As the subject-line indicates, the mountains are calling. Our bags of kit are currently being loaded into two vans and in about an hours time we will head to Cashapampa (9000 feet / 2743m). The three hour drive will take us through beautiful farming communities as we head between the spines of the Cordillera Negra and the Cordillera Blanca. Here we'll organise our burros (mules) and hike to Llama Corral (11,500 feet / 3,505 metres).

We are super psyched and really looking forward to the adventure ahead. This will be my last blog post for a while until our return from the mountain in just under 2 weeks time. Breakfast is now being served on the stunning terrace and once again we can't help but be mesmerised by the views.  And so, the mountains are calling.... and we must go.

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The time has come to go UP!

The time has come to go UP...!

It’s been 5 days since we completed our last rotation up Lhotse, sleeping at an altitude of 7400m (Camp 3) before coming down to Base Camp to prepare for the final summit push – and wait for the weather!!  It’s been an exceptionally busy few days filled with birthday celebrations (THE party of the year at the AC Base Camp!), a surprise visit by the legendary Reinhold Messner and a friendly television crew, detailed briefings on Summit Day logistics (food, gear, timings) and finally, general catching up on both sleeping and eating – something I’ve become exceptionally good at..!

Looking at the forecasts (a company called Meteotest based out of Bern, Switzerland), the summit window this year is pretty clear which is excellent news and has allowed the bigger teams on the mountain to work together to coordinate timings in order to avoid long delays on the mountains upper slopes. The window of good weather looks like it will be between the 18th – 24th of May... a huge improvement over last years 2 day window which caused so many problems on summit day..!

Our current planned summit date will be the early morning of May 20th. This means that we will depart Base Camp in the early hours of the 16th to climb up through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 2, spend the 17th resting and finishing final preparations at Camp 2, climbing the icy steep Lhotse Face to Camp 3 on the 18th,  continue up and traverse to Camp 4 on the 19th and to the 8516m summit on the early morning 20th! It’s a packed schedule but given the strength of the team, quality of the leadership, quality of the route and the resources available to us I cant imagine a better time..!

In terms of my personal reflection on the journey thus far – and the challenges which now lay ahead. I have thoroughly enjoyed the physical and emotional journey which this expedition has offered and delivered – both for the team and friendships made, the comradarie with the Sherpas, the quality of the services provided and the many laughs shared both during the expedition and the run up to it with family, friends and colleagues. I am confident that these past months have formed the foundation of the ‘crux’ which now lies ahead and can’t imagine having a more solid foundation. I feel both honored and blessed to have the opportunity to climb with this team on this absolutely spectacular mountain…!

Please keep our team in your thoughts and prayers over the coming week and think of us on the 20th as we stand on our perch gazing out at a spectacular Himalayan panorama looking out at the Roof of the World in the morning light. Full details of our progress can be found on the Adventure Consultants website under the ‘Lhotse Dispatches’ section…!

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Haute Cuisine a la Beef Jerkey Where only Commercial Airlines Fly... and a lesson learned

We left the comforts of Camp 2 in the early hours of the 8th of May and began the cold, dark gradual uphill plod across the glacier to the base of the Lhotse face... it's a walk that always seems to take foreeeeever. This was the third time that I’d done the walk which certainly didn’t make it any easier… or more tropical..! Guy’s thermometer read -17 which was affirmed by my fingers which I was wriggling vigorously and frantically in the depths of my gloves in an valiant attempt to keep the blood flowing and warmth in their tips…! 

I must admit that that morning wasn’t one of my ‘finer days’ – I was tired and cold and nervous… again, one of the main reasons why I think that so many people underestimate the ‘mental’ side of 8000m peaks. Plodding along staring at your feet and moving so painfully slowly gives you heaps of time to think. Seeing the lifeless body of a Sherpa alongslide the trail who sadly lost his life the previous day really hit home the fragility of human life and the risks taken by so many on the slopes of these mountain giants.

Fortunately as soon as we reached the fixed lines of the Lhotse face and some of the warmth returned to my fingers things started to look up – literally. I managed to clear my mind and focus on the task at hand – step, step, and then slide the ‘jumar’ up the rope. Repeat. Step, step.. etc. etc – you get the picture!

Steps had formed since the last time we went up the ropes so it was a physical yet steady, even 4-hour climb up to Camp 3 perched high up on the face.  Whilst I felt relatively strong, I was soooo relieved to see the camp and relished the prospect of food.  

I’ve developed a bit of a food-craving for beef jerkey (very posh and particularly nutritious, I know - what can I say, I'm a woman of good taste!!) over the course of the past few weeks and began to salivate at the thought of diving into the warmth and comfort of my down suit and sleeping bag, propping myself up on a pillow with my kindle (final chapter of the Life of Pi) and eating my beef jerky and cheese snack while watching the sun set…. And cooking my boil-in-a-bag chicken chow-mein. 

Sadly, it didn’t quite happen this way…

All went according to plan with regards to ‘diving’ into the tent, ducking into my down suit and tucking into my snack however my stomach soon realized that things were amiss and there wasn’t the usual amount of oxygen to aid in the seamlessness of the oxygen abetted digestion process. I felt a sudden flush of heat rush to my cheeks and felt the tent start to spin as my stomach screamed, “Nooooooo!!!!’. Fortunately my tent mate Mark was on-call and I managed to rouse him from his peaceful slumber saying, 

‘Um. Mark..! I’m really not well..!!’.  

Looking at my pale colour and sticky complexion I think he quickly realized the consequences of ‘do nothing’ and the immediate ramifications it might have on both him and sanctity of the tent…! Fortunately this wasn’t Mark’s first expedition and looking at the pile of beef jerky and cheese wrappers next to my Thermarest he quickly put two and two together. I spent the next two hours sat up with my eyes closed, drinking heaps of boiled water, trying to get the world to stop spinning..! Fortunately the lack of oxygen did not affect my (or Marks!) sense of humor and we managed to laugh about the situation. 

I didn’t eat much else that night and the rest of the evening passed fairly uneventfully..! I slept surprisingly well encased in my sleeping bag, down suit and warm socks… dreaming of the chicken chow-mein which I will no doubt enjoy on our next visit to Camp 3 in a few days time..!!!

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Quaking in my kevlar boots... Welcome to the Khumbu Icefall

The main differentiator between the North (Tibet / China) and South (Nepal) routes to the 8848m summit Mount Everest is where the main ‘challenges’ are located along the way – on the North side, it’s the ‘second step’ – a steep rock wall now ‘simplified’ through a ladder at circ 8500m. On the South side of Everest it’s the notorious Khumbu Icefall which begins just outside of base camp at around 5400m.  

Seeing photographs of climbers on the South Side making their way through the icefall, basking in the sunshine, posing for photographs whilst crossing gaping blue crevasses by means of ladders roped precariously together always sparked my interest – was this the ‘true’ Everest experience?? How would I fare…? 

Well, having now gone through the icefall 4 x (twice up, twice down) I can sum it up quite quickly: Eeeeeek..!!!!

The Khumbu Icefall looks like it was created by an exceptionally moody (perhaps PMS-ing) god-like giant who, one cold and wintery day, threw a temper tantrum and smashed a gigantic, titanic-sized block of ice and snow onto the ground (as if trying to smash a dinner plate) to create a violent, jagged, pile of precariously balanced maze of ice blocks, seracs and crevasses which shift and slide daily – and violently - in response to the movement of the glacier underneath… and swallow, smash, envelop everything and anything in its path.

Standing in the middle of the icefall, looking around is a surreal experience. Whilst it’s eerily quiet, you can hear the cracking of the ice shifting beneath your feet and watch as crevasses widen and shift before your eyes. It is truly alive. It seems almost a magical, beautiful place but deceivingly dangerous – avalanches, falling seracs, ice and the shifting of the living ice beneath your feet create hazards which serve to remind you of the power of nature and the fragility of human life. It’s tempting to stop and take a photograph… but by stopping you are prolonging the amount of time you spend in this ‘garden of eden’.

Icefall Doctors are employed on a regular (daily basis throughout the main Everest climbing season) to ‘tend’ to the icefall and secure a path that allows the quickest possible passage through the seemingly impenetrable maze of ice and snow. They risk their lives to travel through the icefall and set up and ensure that ladders are secured to cross the crevasses and, on a daily basis, monitor the ladders and the route to ensure that it continues to serve its purpose to provide the safest and most efficient route through the icefall. 

There seems to be a direct correlation between the width of the crevasses, the length of the ladders crossing them and the increase in temperature with the arrival of the imminent monsoon season. On our first rotation, I found the ladders horrible but bearable… Having said that, on our last trip through the icefall one particularly nasty, deep, seemingly endless gaping blue crevasse was made passable thanks to 4 precariously tied ladder lengths. I know it’s ‘mind over matter’ but as the points of my crampons pass over the steely rungs and I look down to see a piece of snow fall hundreds of feet, deep into the blue abyss it’s nearly impossible not to swallow and have a moment of hesitation and apprehension..!

Fortunately we only have 2 more passes through the icefall – one up and one down and from that moment forward it will most certainly be an experience that I’ll most enjoy from memory and from photographs..!

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The People You Meet: Lama Geshi - a blessing for the adventure ahead....

We left the comforts of our lodge in Deboche and slowly made our way along the dusty trail toward our home for the next two days – Pheriche. It was a gloriously sunny day and we ambled through the barren terrain and along the beautifully engraved mani walls taking in the stunning peaks which put the challenge of what lays ahead well and truly into perspective..! Beautiful snow capped mountains including views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam.

The morning started auspiciously, we went to a blessing held at Lama Geshi’s house, a lama who had escaped Tibet in 1947 and settled in Pangboche, finding a spiritual and real home under the eye of the mountain, Ama Dablam. He is the highest ranking Buddhist Lama in the area. Almost every climber to the Everest region visits him to receive a blessing before their climb. For many climbers and trekkers, this is one of the highlights and life long memory of their visit to Nepal.

We stopped in at Lama Geshi’s incredibly ‘atmospheric’ home to receive a blessing and a small gift. This includes a piece of paper which has been blessed and inscribed with a prayer, and a string of coloured cord (a sungdi) to wear around the neck, with a knot representing the prayer to the goddess and for our safety. In return we must respect; respect the mountain and each other and Lama Geshi asked us not only to think of doing well on this expedition to Lhotse, but also in life. Be a good person was his message. The message was delivered through a chant of prayers for our safety and permission to climb the mountain while tossing rice into the air and occasionally ringing a small bell. The entire ceremony lasted about 20 minutes.

Sitting in front of Lama Geshi and receiving the blessing along with the rest of my team was a very humbling experience which promoted a time of personal reflection. A beam of light seemed to shine down on the Lama as he sat in front the only window in the dark, dusty room which seemed to let in a trickle of light. He sits surrounded by years and years of climbing history and Buddhist symbols. His smile was gentle and his eyes full of wisdom…  Lama Geshi also conducts pujas where climbers receive his blessing for a safe climb. Many Sherpa will not touch a mountain without his blessing.

We then enjoyed our walk in the sunshine up to Pheriche and the comforts of the Himalayan Lodge. The Himalayan Lodge is a fantastic little lodge with excellent food and a great atmosphere – the main room was packed with climbers from all walks of life including a Qatari prince and a team from Extreme Everest who are studying the effects of altitude on the body.

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The People You Meet: Himalayan Healers – the Diva in Down’s (slight) Diversion from ‘The Hardcore”

Despite this blog’s ‘title’, “The Diva in Down”, I *try* not to be a ‘diva’ on expedition. I generally *try* and stay away from worries about ‘hair and makeup’, brightly coloured nail polish, conversations about designer handbags, and the latest fashion tips offered by Maire-Claire magazine… So, it was a bit ‘out of character’ (ah hem) to cut my ‘team coffee’ short yesterday because I had to get a massage.... Needless to say, this raised a few eyebrows as I’d protested earlier that day that even though I was sporting bright blue sparkly nail polish (which matched my jacket and my shoes) that I wasn’t ‘high maintenance’. I could almost hear the eyes roll as my team mates chuckled quietly as I scurried down for my hour of indulgence.

I must admit, I’m not a ‘massage person’ but Sushila Shakya, one of the owners of one of the main and historical buildings on the ‘main street’ (including Cafe Danphe and Namche Cyber Cafe and Restaurant)  in central Namche had given me a tour of the boutique massage and sauna facilities on a previous expedition and encouraged me to give it a try. I’d never had the time to do so but found myself today feeling ‘adventurous’ and treating myself following the long hot slog up Namche Hill…!

The spa is part of the Himalayan Healers social enterprise which was established in Nepal about 10 years ago. It was set up for trauma victims in Nepal – primarily women who have been raped, abused, orphaned and/or trafficked – to allow them to go through a process of rehabilitation while learning healing and massage in the safe environment of a healing arts school in Kathmandu. 

Since its humble beginnings with two massage beds, Himalayan Healers now has branches throughout Nepal in Kathmandu, Pokhra and Namche in many botique hotels. Since its inception, at Himalayan Healers, the message is clear: everyone is equal. The training is open to anyone with a profound need, and the organisation’s success is determined by the healing of its students. 

For the students, the personal healing begins on the first day of training. The students train for five hours a day, six days a week. The training slowly progresses from a simple “feet treat” to a full body massage over the 14-week course. But what makes the programme unique is that all of the students have faced profound trauma. From Ashmita, who was raped and left for dead, to Pooja, who was rescued after being trafficked across the Indian border, each student suppresses many emotions related to these events, and as the weeks progress, these emotions begin to come to the surface as part of their rehabilitation. 

Himalayan Healers work on a social entrepreneurial micro-credit scheme. A good faith deposit based on the student’s economic background, which can range from Rs. 1 upward, is paid by the student towards the Rs. 25,000 fee (circ 250 USD). The student is responsible to repay the fee after they’ve secured employment and their lives have stabilised following the training. The recovered fees pay for subsequent batches of students, helping to make the organisation self-sustaining. Each batch ranges from eight to 10 students, and the school does not take on any student without being able to guarantee employment following the completion of the programme. A majority of the students start by working in one of the five Himalayan Healers Spa Boutique locations and several have chosen to take positions at world-renowned spas abroad. For others, the confidence regained through the training has inspired them to pursue other interests. Like Satish, who is now attending medical school. 

The massage – complete with heated stones – was absolutely amazing and a ‘must do’ for anyone passing through Namche either going to or coming back from an expedition or trek. I thoroughly enjoyed the hour of indulgence and it felt fantastic to be supporting such an excellent cause. I would highly recommend that anyone passing through Nepal visit one of the Himalayan Healers facilities..! 

Many thanks to Sushila and her team at: 
Namche Cyber Café (complete with Starbucks coffee)
Café Danphe Bar, Restaurant and Hotel 
Himalayan Healers

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The long hot slog up to the Sherpa Capital of Namche Bazaar

Blue skies and a sunny morning greeted us as we awoke in Monjo and began our plod up Namche Hill to the town of Namche, the ‘Gateway to the Himalaya’ and the first major stepping stone on any trek into the Khumbu region of Nepal. We made good time up the hill and arrived at 10am which gave us the luxury of the day to acclimatise and allow our bodies to respond to the lack of oxygen at 3200m by producing more red blood cells. 

It’s great to be back in Namche - a ‘holding place’ that most climbers and trekkers pass through on their way into the Khumbu and on treks / climbs to the Everest region. During the day the city is alive with internet cafes blaring music, shops selling all kinds of mountaineering gear (from down jackets to technical climbing tools) interspersed with the occasional pharmacy. There are some real legends from the climbing community here at the moment and it’s fascinating to learn more about everyone’s plans. 

I'm looking forward to rolling out my sleeping bag and enjoying a solid nights sleep, taking in my fill of coffee and maximising the last of the reliable internet facilities for the coming weeks..!

We stay in Namche for 2 nights and then make our way up to the small mountain village of Deboche – one of my favourite sections of trail in the region.

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An up-close & personal tour of every air pocket between Kathmandu & Lukla: Flying into the most dangerous airport in the world

 At 2860m Tenzing-Hillary Airport (better known as Lukla airport) bears the infamous title of being the ‘most dangerous airport in the world’. At the end of the short and abrupt runway (angled at a ‘gentle’ 30 degree upward slope) is a very large and very solid unforgiving mountain and the dangers in landing are often compounded by hazardous weather. The airport is ‘overlooked’ by the mountain village of Lukla which is the starting point of most treks and expeditions into the Khumbu region of Nepal. 

This morning at 5am I found myself fitting in a last minute packing job, strategically cramming in all the ‘non-essentials’ that I’d responsibly decided that I wouldn’t need (e.g. the electric blue nail polish, scented candles…). At 5.45 I found myself in the lobby ready for the days adventures to begin..!

The theme of the day seems to have been ‘hurry up and wait’ – a part of life that you learn to quickly accept here in Nepal. Today was no different…  At 6am we rushed from our hotels to get into line at Kathmandu’s domestic terminal and then proceeded to wait; weighed our bags on an old grain-scale… and then proceeded to wait; we rushed to get through ‘security’ and then proceeded to wait; rushed to the transit bus and then proceeded to wait for our slightly rusted twin prop plane… The flight was a slightly harrowing one and the pilot kindly gave us a ‘tour’ of every air-pocked between Kathmandu and Lukla. Had the flight been in a helicopter it would have been fairly ‘normal’ however I had to remind myself that twin-prop planes generally don’t really fare well in dealing with vertical movement and 20m ‘drops’...!! I closed my eyes and cranked my ipod up a little louder to drown out the sputtering of the engines and the gasps of my fellow passengers.

Seeing the small runway in Lukla reminded me however that I was now officially in ‘expedition mode’. My main focus for the coming weeks is to embrace the steady pace of expedition life where days and moments and memories are taken and enjoyed one step and one day at a time.  It was a brilliantly clear day with the sun peeking over the panorama of snow-capped mountains and the farmers making their way into the terraced fields.

The walk up to the village of Monjo (our stop for the night) was relaxed and thoroughly enjoyable – bumping into both Ian Ridley from my Everest 2010 team and Jon Gupta, a friend from the UK enroute..!  It isn’t a surprise to see familiar faces as the well-trodden trail is bustling with trekkers and the air is filled with the sound of the steady clink of their poles on the stone steps. The sound of chimes and prayer wheels turning in the wind fill the air with a familiar ‘mountain melody’. The colourful spring blossoms add vibrance against the clear blue sky and cold grey mountains casting their shadows over the land.

I’m soooo happy to be back and excited to use these days to get to know our fantastic little team, all of our mutual acquaintances and exchange stories over bottomless cups of hot tea..!

Rene and Anthony enjoying the walk

Bumping into former team mate & friend, Ian Ridley on the trail

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An Unconventional Blog about my Unconventional Bedroom - Altitude Training

One of the most rewarding 'side effects' of my high altitude experiences has been the opportunities it's presented to better understand my own physiology and the changes that are taking place within my body as I 'go to altitude'. The body's response to altitude proves, once again, what an incredible and resilient machine the human body is.
One of the key 'tools' which I've been using in preparation for expeditions to 8000m peaks including both Everest and Makalu has been an altitude tent which I rent from The Altitude Centre in London.  

Before I go into detail about what this crazy contraption is, I'll take a few seconds to outline some of the science behind it...

The Science
The lungs contain approximately 300 million tiny air sacs, called alveoli. Each of these tiny air sacs has a thin membrane, through which oxygen in the air is absorbed into the bloodstream through diffusion.  Carbon dioxide is expired from the blood to the air in the lungs, before being exhaled. Simply put, the less air pressure there is, the less oxygen there will be in each breath, and the less will pass through the membranes into the blood.

The body responds to the decreased amount of oxygen by increasing the efficiency of oxygen intake from the lungs and transport in the blood. An important part of the acclimatisation process is the production of more red blood cells, which takes place mainly during rest.  

A 'Head Start' - the Altitude Tent
To give myself a 'head start' and 'grow some additional red blood cells' before I leave, I have been spending the past month sleeping in an altitude tent. Sleeping in a 'simulated altitude environment' allows my body to achieve some of the positive adaptations to altitude while still allowing me to continue to go to 'carry on my normal life' at an oxygen-rich lower altitude where muscles can perform at their normal work level. 

Rather than simulating altitude with actual low air pressure (which would require substantial engineering!), the altitude tent remains at normal air pressure, substituting low concentration of oxygen for low pressure. While normal air contains 20.9% oxygen independent of altitude, the air in an altitude tent contains as little as 12% oxygen (the remainder being nitrogen). The partial pressure of oxygen inside the tent is the same as it is at the natural elevation that the tent is simulating.

I can’t claim that the altitude tent has done wonders for my sleep pattern and do wonder every night as I zip up the flap to ‘seal’ the tent and provide the controlled environment into which the air is pumped whether it's working! 

What's involved
A small beer-fridge size machine (the 'hypoxic air generator') which sounds like a low-decibel lawnmower is connected to the ‘tent’ by an 8 foot long clear plastic hose which pumps the low oxygen controlled air into the tent. This displaces the more oxygen-rich air inside the tent and with it the excess carbon dioxide which I exhale. The body’s response to the lack of oxygen is to stimulate the production of red blood cells, giving the blood better oxygen-carrying capacity and lowering the heart rate.  

It takes the body more than two weeks to produce new red-blood cells – hence why I’ve been sleeping in this plastic bubble for nearly 8 weeks now..!!

I must admit, I’d prefer pre-acclimatising high in the Swiss Alps in a gorgeous chalet with a fantastic mountain view while eating cheese fondue with a dreamboat ski instructor named Otto, but I’ve learned that in life (in this crazy world of high altitude mountaineering) you have to learn to make compromises….

If you're interested in altitude training or have questions about how altitude training can boost your performance at altitude or for long-distance events (eg. marathons, cycling, etc.) give The Altitude Centre a call - or better yet, pay them a visit at one of their fantasic gyms. They are a fantastic resource and I'd highly recommend giving them a call or checking out one of their high-tech gyms.

enquiries@altitudecentre.com
www.altitudecentre.com

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Heading up the Mountain! Ama Dablam Camp 1 Gear Carry....

 I’ve had the so-called privilege of slogging, unacclimatised, huffing and puffing, air struggling to reach the deepest, darkest depths of my hypoxic brain up snow slopes and rock faces on various mountains across the world. During these times I pass each heavy footstep dreaming of the day when I can ‘walk’... no, skip... up these slopes and actually stop to enjoy the views rather than feeling like I’m about to keel over in exhaustion as my eyes glaze over…. 

Well, today the day came and all of the time and effort that we put into acclimatizing on Makalu rewarded us in ways that exceeded all of my hopes..! All I can say is, “Being acclimatized is AMAZING. Being acclimatised is the best thing EVER. Mountaineering is actually FUN!!!!!"

We set of from the comforts of basecamp at an absolutely FREEZING hour of 7am (the sun hits camp at 7.36am!). Even a 6am ‘hot towel with black tea’ does little to entice one from the warmth of a sleeping bag when the temperatures outside of the tent are well below zero. Having said that, as soon as we got moving and started to climb up the first grassy slope the warmth soon reached my finger tips and I found my stride… and never looked back..!

The climb up to Camp 1 is mainly on a grassy trail at a comfortable slope with absolutely stunning views all round. This is then followed by a short steep section of bouldery terrain with some nice big granite slabs. With the mighty face of Ama Dablam clearly in our sights, we took every opportunity to stop and take photos and take pleasure in the fact that we were walking at a comfortable pace without huffing and puffing..! Cholatse, the mountain that I attempted in the spring, was to our backs – also an absolutely stunning peak and illuminated by the sunrise – it made for a fabulous walk and had me dreaming of future projects and challenges.

We were heading up to Camp 1 to drop off our technical equipment to save us having to carry the equipment to Camp 1 during the climbing rotation for our summit push. When every ounce of weight matters we do everything that we can to conserve the valuable energy that will be needed during the main part of the climb. As I’ll also be carrying warm clothes and food on my next climb up to Camp 1, every opportunity to get rid of extra weight was most welcome. 

Camp 1 is perched on a ridge in the sunshine and providing a fantastic view of the route to the summit as well as the other Camps. Whilst the tent spaces are limited and the nights will certainly be cold, Camp 1 is stunning and will likely be the more comfortable of the 2 that we’ll be using on the mountain..! We made it up in about 4.5 hours and took an hour to refuel, take photos and start our descent back to Base Camp. A fantastic, rewarding, and satisfying day that really highlighted the levels of fitness we achieved on Makalu and the degree to which acclimatization makes such a big difference.


Between the 4 of us, we celebrated that evening over a delicious dinner complimented by Nepal’s finest rum and toasted to our next foray onto this stunning peak.

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Enroute to climb Ama Dablam - Back in Namche Bazaar....

Following a delicious breakfast of porridge, cereal and bottomless cups of tea from a spotlessly clean lodge we set out under a cloudless blue sky from the small village of Monjo this morning up 'Namche Hill' to the thriving metropolis of Namche Bazaar... As usual we are graced with absolutely breathtaking views through the Khumbu Valley in the shadow of Everest off in the distance.  I've done this walk now numerous times and the views never cease to disappoint. The narrow path cut into the side of the hill  and heavy yak traffic means we often walk in a long and winding 'trekking train'; the sounds of the white-water of the Duda Kosi river far below broken only by the 'clink' of our trekking poles chipping against the rock underfoot and the occasional porter carrying small battery powered radios playing what I can only assume is the Nepali Top 40.

The smells along the trail enliven and overwhelm the senses. The valley is filled with smell of sweet blossoms, richy fertilised earth turned over by local farmers planting potatoes in their fields, the intoxicating smell of crushed juniper underfoot, the sweet milky smell of the porters carrying their heavy loads,  and the occasional pile of steamy yak dung planted unceremoniously in the middle of the trail. Whilst it is a rather unique combination of scents and not altogether unpleasant, I don't suspect that 'Eau de Nepal' will be bottled and sold in a French perfumerie any time soon.

While the path is undulating and steep in certain sections, it is by no means impossible and for anyone considering a trek in the Himalayas where they can enjoy relative 'creature comforts' (beds, culture and hospitality of the local people, fantastic food, breath taking views...) I would highly recommend it. There are literally people of all ages, shapes and sizes along the trail making the experience their own. 


A challenging part of the walk has been to try and stay on the left side of the 'mani-walls', 'stupas' and prayer wheels which are found along auspicious sections of the trail and at the entrance to the numerous villages through which we pass. Mani walls are generally about 4-feet in height and can range from 4 feet - 30 feet in length and are made up of flat stones carved with the mantra (prayer) "Om Mani Padme Hum" which means (roughly) 'Generosity, Ethics, Patience, Diligence, Renunciation, Wisdom'  Given the early arrival of the high winds on Makalu last month I refuse to take any chances with charma and have been giving each stupa, mani wall, and prayer wheel its due respect!

Spinning the written form of the mantra around in a Mani wheel (or prayer wheel) is also believed to give the same benefit as saying the mantra, and Mani wheels, small hand wheels and large wheels with millions of copies of the mantra inside, are found not only in Nepal but everywhere in lands influenced by Tibetan Buddhism. 

We made it up 'Namche Hill' in almost record time and settled into our gorgeous lodge which looks out over Namche. Breathtaking view of many mountains and routes (the Losar ice climb will be EPIC in a few weeks time!). SO many things to do, so little time.!

It's also been great to see old friends here - Tsadam, KC at Sherpaland, as well as the team here at the Internet Cafe and the bar downstairs where I've spent (perhaps!) too many evenings enjoying the hot rum punch...!

Our group 'splits' tomorrow as Valdes, Chad and I (taking advantage of our 'Makalu Acclimatisation' continue on to Phortse and then on to Ama Dablam Base Camp. The rest of the team will continue with their acclimatisation here and meet up with us in a few days time.

It's great to be back in the Khumbu and to be moving on tomorrow - am very much looking forward to our day into Phortse, meeting up with the Sherpa team and the adventure ahead on Ama Dablam..!

Police checkpoint to check permits...

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Rest days before the next acclimatisation push....

Spare yourself no illusions that we are stilll heroically trudging knee-deep through a steep snowy slopes on the far flung reaches of Makalu, clinging onto our jumars with clenched teeth, breathing each breath as if it were our last… Oh no.... Rather, the greater proportion of us are lounging in our tents or enjoying the warm comforts of the 'chill out tent' where the world is 'yellow', enjoying the benefits of satelite internet, solar power and the rather eclectic mix of songs on Adrian's ipod. Every now and then Monica breaks out into song and Tashi comes by with a new recipe which he'd like to try out on us... I am just digesting the most fabulous 'baked spaghetti' and counting down the minutes to dinner. Adrian has decided that as a side-business, he will open up the high altitude Alpenglow Coffee Republic cafe with his cappucino apparatus that also provides a great arm-work out in preparation for all of the jumar-ing ahead..!

We're resting today as tomorrow we head back up to Camp 1 and then on to Camp 2 from which we'll climb to 7000m. This will be our last push before our summit bid which is expected in early October - weather dependent...! I'm excited to be heading back up the mountain to conduct the final preparations of both mind and body for the tremendous challenge ahead.

Everyone is feeling healthy and strong - there is one other team here (Keri Kobler) as well as three small independent teams. Having said that, the mountain is in top-notch condition, the weather forecast is excellent, the ropes are fixed to Camp 3!

I've tried to post as much as I can today in an effort to catch up on some missed-days so hopefully this will give you a good overview of the adventures that we've been having on this absolutely spectacular mountain.

That's all for me for now - in spite of the 5* conditions, my fingers are slowly freezing and the sun is setting behind the mountains so it's time for me to dive into my tent and read the 2nd installment of Harry Potter! 

Will post again in 3 days! x

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