TAKING THE FIRST STEPS... A series of events that kicked-off a roller-coaster 10-years of adventure..! Just before I left for Denali last month, I shared a few candid insights into the literal (and proverbial) highs and lows of a life in the mountains, why I love my (desk) day-job, the "fun scale", my mountain-inspirations, failings in the kitchen and how I redeem myself through mean bloody-marys....
Thanks to ILIVEXTREME for the opportunity to share my story...! It was a lot of fun and I enjoyed your questions..!
The full interview with pictures can be found via: http://ilivextreme.com/climbing-denali/
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It’s a Sunday morning in early June and I’m catching up with friend and mountaineer Heather Geluk as she sits in an airy Scandinavian-themed coffee shop in Toronto’s east side. Born in Ridgetown, a small town in Ontario Canada, Heather and I first met a couple of years ago when I was giving a talk at the Adventure Travel Show in London and we were introduced by a mutual friend. After living in the UK for many years, she’s now back living in Canada, but not one to sit still for very long, we talk about her latest trip to climb the highest mountain peak in North America – Denali. I will be attempting Denali in 2020 after harbouring the desire to do so for the past 4 or 5 years and I’m stockpiling all of the tips in the following interview.When and how did you first become interested in mountaineering?
Just over 10 years ago in 2008. I needed some “space” to make some big life decisions – job, boyfriend, where to live – all that chunky stuff that life throws at us from time to time! I booked a very last minute trip to Nepal to climb Mera Peak, a 6300m mountain in the Everest region. I knew very little, practically nothing about mountaineering, had zero experience, and was woefully unprepared but was fortunate to have joined an amazing team with a very patient guide. Three challenging weeks later we reached the summit of Mera Peak and I looked out and over the panorama of Himalayan giants framed against a cloudless blue sky. It was absolutely breathtaking. Looking out at Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kanchenjunga – I knew that despite everything that I’d gone through to get there, there was no place on Earth I’d rather be. And that was the beginning of a whirlwind 10 years of climbing some of the world’s highest mountains. The boyfriend was quickly forgotten, the job sorted itself out, and a new passion for seeing the world from a different perspective had taken hold.
Since that happened how has your life changed?
It has changed in countless ways. Since that trip to Mera Peak in 2008, I’ve been on over 25 significant expeditions to the highest mountains on earth including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, others in the high Himalaya, Andes and Alps. On these expeditions I’ve learned to ‘dig deep’, tapping into reserves of strength, determination and the knowledge that simply putting one foot in front of the other can achieve so much. But even before that, I’ve learned to manage training and extensive preparation around the commitments of a demanding job by honing skills in discipline, commitment, courage and creativity.
Climbing’s helped me connect to an incredible global community of people passionate about the outdoors – it’s given me a tribe and a vibe. Climbing’s been a vehicle for me to visit countries I may not otherwise have experienced – Iran, Peru, Argentina, Iceland, Morocco, Tanzania, Nepal, India, Bhutan- through interaction with people at the local level. Climbing’s also helped me to find a purpose. I feel incredibly fortunate to travel to these far-flung places. I feel a strong sense of purpose and responsibility to share this with others – either through storytelling, writing, photography, and, most importantly, for raising money for good causes. It’s my hope that in some small way my actions will help make the lives of others’ better, easier or that they’ll encourage people to step outside of their own comfort zones and achieve more than they ever dreamed possible.
Tell me about Your plan for Denali this year…
Liv! On your birthday (June 8th) I’m heading to Alaska to climb Denali. I’ve had Denali on my ‘bucket list’ for ages and knew that when I moved back to Canada I’d make it happen. And here we are. Denali will be a tough expedition – the mountain rises an icy 6,190m (20,310 feet) out of a sea of glaciers and other peaks that comprise the Alaska Range. High altitude, sub-Arctic conditions, fickle weather, unpredictable storms, steep slopes, and deep crevasses combine to make Denali one of the most difficult and severe mountains in the world. The climb will involve relaying loads of equipment over 66 kilometers (41 miles) over the course of 22 days, establishing camps and climbing slowly enough for proper acclimatization. In addition, I’ll be carrying 60 pound pack and pulling a 40 pound sled, loaded with gear to establish camps on the mountain as I prepare to get into position to summit in late June. Oh, and did I mention that the temperature will be a balmy –minus-30 degrees?
Holy crap it’s just going to be incredible isn’t it. I’m so excited for you and to hear all about it when you get back! You often embark upon these trips representing a charity..
My passion for adventure is the by-product of a love for the outdoors instilled by rural roots and an inherent sense of ‘wanderlust.’ As a kid I spent a lot of time playing outside with my brothers, getting up to all sorts of trouble. These same rural roots instilled in me the importance of community and the responsibility of playing a part to make it better. I try and use my experiences climbing the highest mountains as opportunities to inspire others and to give back to the community by raising funds and awareness to support health and wellbeing of women and babies. I organise regular treks to Kilimanjaro and Everest Base Camp to support women’s health charities. The awesome thing about these trips is that not only have we been able to raise heaps of money and awareness about the critical need for research into women’s health, they’ve also helped colleagues become friends and individuals to push themselves well and truly beyond their comfort zones.
In 2015, I was on a 8,000m mountain in a very remote part of Nepal during the devastating earthquake that killed over 9,000 people and injured over 25,000. It was an extremely challenging time physically and emotionally. I was fortunate to have survived the earthquake and subsequently spent two months in Nepal providing humanitarian support – working with local charities to support all those who had lost virtually everything. It was my purpose to be there and help especially after the Nepalese community had shown me endless hospitality during previous trips. I helped to channel funds from the international community to local, grassroots charities and also relayed money and supplies into communities in remote mountainous regions. The memories from those months will stay with me forever and have fundamentally changed the way that I approach my life. Life is wickedly, preciously short and each and every moment should be savoured and cherished.
Who are your mountaineering idols?
Lakpa Rita Sherpa is one of the incredible people that I’ve been fortunate enough to call a friend – I’d definitely put him up there as one of my idols. Raised in Everest region of Nepal in the picturesque village of Thame, Lakpa has been professionally guiding and climbing around the world for nearly two decades. His mountaineering achievements are significant, with an astonishing 17 summits of Mt. Everest plus 22 summits of Cho-Oyu and numerous other peaks in Nepal. Lakpa was the first Sherpa and first Nepali to climb the Seven Summits and he regularly leads teams on mountains including Aconcagua, Denali and of Mount Vinson in Antarctica. He has summited Mount Rainier over 200 times and in 2013 was named one of Outside Magazine’s “Adventurers of The Year”. He has been a friend and a constant presence for me during my many visits to Nepal, I cherish his warmth, grace and good humour. I’d put Lakpa up there on my top 5 list of the most selfless, humble, kind and softly-spoken people that I’ve ever met. Not only that but he balances this by being an incredible husband and father to his family and an active member of the Sherpa community both in his home in Seattle as well as in Nepal. In two words – Lakpa rocks.
A fellow Canadian, Isabelle Santoire is another inspirational person. She’s an inspiring athlete, ambassador and incredible teacher. On skis, on a rock face, or when meeting to discuss ambitions over a coffee in her current home in sunny Chamonix, France. She’s passionate about sharing the experiences in the mountains. Her goals are to encourage others to experience the same and go beyond their perceived physical and mental limits. It’s no surprise that Isabelle has become a local icon with her contagious smile and warm personality. But what makes her even more amazing is that not only is she a kick-ass guide (among the first female UIAGM guides), she’s also a proud mother to 2 gorgeous young children. She continues to live in the constant search for perfect balance enabling others to achieve their alpine dreams safely and spending time with her family.
Why do you think we’re so obsessed with mountaineering?
Well, it has given me purpose. Ten years ago I found myself selfishly asking, “Seriously? Is this it? Isn’t there more to life than this..?” In my heart, I knew something was missing but I didn’t know exactly what it was or what I was supposed to do to find it. Over the course of the ten years that followed – from that initial summit of Mera Peak through to today, I do my best to create and live a life filled with a deep sense of purpose, happiness whilst getting paid to do work I enjoy – and yes, I have a normal desk job and spend more hours than I care to admit doing powerpoint presentations and spread-sheets (powerpoint has become a form of self-expression!) BUT I’ve used the skills learned inside and outside of the office to attempt to make a meaningful impact in the world.
I also truly believe that everything we do and everyone we meet along this life-journey is put in our path for a reason. I know that sounds a bit ‘whimsical’ but I genuinely believe it. There are no accidents; we’re all teachers – if we’re willing to pay attention to the lessons and trust our instincts, we learn. This means not being afraid to take risks and not wait for some miracle to come knocking. It’s hard work and can be scary at times but this perspective has given me the most tremendous appreciation for life and has helped to turn moments of uncertainty, confusion and discomfort into opportunity.
When do you get up to when you’re not at altitude?
When I’m not climbing a mountains, I’m helping organisations climb proverbial mountains. My “day job” is as a communications and change management consultant in downtown Toronto. I love the contrast between life as a consultant and the mountains. I’ve realised that I can’t do one without the other – I’m a better consultant because I climb. I’m a better climber because I’m a consultant.
How have you been training for Denali?
I grew up playing team sports and have always had a good level of fitness. Having said that, I’m terrible at motivating myself and can usually find about 10 different things on my never-ending-procrastination-to-do-list as an excuse to avoid going to the gym – washing the dishes, doing laundry, ironing suddenly seem so much more appealing!
Unfortunately, I do need to be fit both mentally and physically travel to and survive and most importantly ENJOY climbing in these far-flung and remote environments. Interestingly, boxing has been a fantastic fitness vehicle for me to prepare to head into the mountains. The training sessions that I’ve been involved in between the UK and Canada have provided a group-environment that is individual (yet team) oriented, intense, and affordable, under the guidance of amazing instructors and surrounded by a fantastic network of support.
There have been thick books written about training for climbs. Above and beyond the fitness aspects covered in these books, it’s also important to mention the importance of taking time out give yourself some TLC – your body is your most important tool so nurture it. Eat good, healthy and non-processed foods, eat 3 meals per day, get enough sleep and take time out away from the devices to relax your mind, listen to some music, go for a walk in a forest, listen to the birds, read a book… and… just… chill.
Other than Alaska, where else is on your destination list?
I’d love to travel to see the fjords of Norway and also to see the granite towers and icebergs of Patagonia. Both appeal for the jaw-dropping beauty and the fragility of their environments.
What would you say to someone getting into climbing?
Climbing is fun. And fun, like anything, can be nuanced; not all fun is created equal.
I learned about the ‘fun scale’ from a guide and friend Zac whilst climbing in Scotland about 10 years ago and it’s helped me to rationalise climbing and the ‘pain caves’ I find myself in from time to time. Anyone I’ve met and spoken to about climbing will know my views on the fun scale….
Type I Fun – It’s enjoyable while it’s happening and elicits an immediate reaction from endorphins. Quite simply, it’s fun. Good fun doing things we love to do. Scrumptious food, meaty red wine, powder skiing, sex (sometimes!), margaritas beside the pool with friends, happy hours on the dock….
Type II Fun – It’s miserable while it’s happening, but fun in retrospect – I call it the ‘rose tinted glasses’ effect. When you look back at the misery and discomfort, and forget how truly awful it was and you want to go through the ‘fun’ again. Type II fun generally starts with the best of intentions and then things go sideways. You go from a scale of, ‘This is awesome and fun!’ and eventually get to the point of, “WTF. I’m SO over this”. Examples include doing an ironman, setting out on a long bike-ride, working out till you puke, and, usually, ice and alpine climbing.
When Zac told me about Type II fun we were on Ben Nevis doing winter skills training. It was getting dark and we were due back at our refuge for dinner. I was stuck on a precariously exposed ledge with about 200m of air below my frozen feet, my goggles were fogging up, I’d lost feeling in my fingers about an hour before, visibility was zero, winds were howling around us and spindrift was pouring down from the upper reaches of the mountain and into my jacket. I can’t put into words how cold, awful and uncomfortable and stressed I was. On a scale of 1 – 10 I was deep in the negative digits. “Why on earth would anyone in their right mind EVER want to do this” is pretty much how I felt (insert expletives as appropriate!!).
By the time we reached the refuge and two bites into the world’s best lasagne drinking the worlds best wine, my tune had changed: “Ya know, that wasn’t so bad. What are we doing tomorrow?”
Type III Fun – this type of fun is not fun at all. Not even in retrospect. Afterward, you think, “What in the hell was I doing / thinking? If I ever come up with another idea that stupid, somebody shake some sense into me.” Fortunately I don’t have too many of these experiences – and when I do I like to think of them as ‘character building’. Examples include one or two work-related projects I’ve been on, moving house, a failed relationship that lacked Type I fun. Shudder!
If you could choose one moment from your life to go back and re-experience, which would it be?
The moment I’d love to re-experience is coming down into Everest Base Camp after summiting Lhotse, an 8516m mountain in Nepal in late May, 2013. This was a ‘Type 2 fun’ experience. The descent from Lhotse was hard and scary. The extreme altitude, cold, rock-fall and exhaustion all contributed to a precarious and dangerous descent down the steep and icy Lhotse Face into Camp 2 at 6300m. My legs were so tired they felt detached from my body. I remember literally crawling into my tent and being so tired that I couldn’t sleep. But I was alive. And I’d summited. And so did my entire team. But none of that had really sunk in yet.
The next morning I summoned all of my strength and we made our way the final 700m down into Everest Base Camp. I was climbing with a fabulous team from Adventure Consultants and as we rounded one of the final corners coming into camp we were met by a ‘Welcome Party’ made up of some of the incredible team of guides, base-camp managers and Sherpas. They were ringing bells, beating kitchen-pans with wooden spoons, singing, dancing with the HUGEST smiles on their faces. And cold beers. It was incredible. We totally partied. I struggle to even describe how my heart was filled with gratitude and happiness that day (and ‘great’ is SUCH an understatement). I get emotional just thinking about it. Definitely one of the best days of my life shared with an incredible group of friends. I’d do anything to relive that day.
What do you wish you could do better?
I wish I could cook. I’m terrible. But I make a mean Bloody Mary.
What’s the most ‘extreme’ thing you’ve ever done?
The most extreme thing I’ve ever done – that’s a tough one! My mind initially goes to the Himalayas but I think that the most extreme thing I’ve ever done is cycle 7500 across Canada over the course of 72 days – on a whim and without training… It was nuts (on hindsight and a good example of Type 2 fun) but awesome beyond words. Definitely one of the best but maddest experiences of my life.
After that I’d have to say ‘online dating’. I’m still trying to determine what kind of fun that is..!!
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You can follow Heather and her Denali climb progress on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter – She’s climbing Denali for the follow charities Wellbeing of Women (UK) and Women’s College hospital (Canada) she has also been sponsored on this particular summit attempt by Black Diamond Equipment, Arc’teryx and SUUNTO Fitness.
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