A 'Rest Day' at 14,000ft in preparation for our anticipated move to 17,000ft tomorrow. The weather forecast is correct in its prediction of 80% chance of snow as we wake to snow but relatively mild temperatures hovering around -10 (ish). Whilst the forecast was 'sketchy' (at best) for tomorrow, there's a small, short high pressure system (aka better weather) rolling through in 2 days - so it's important that we get up to 17,000ft tomorrow to put us in position for the 20,000 ft summit on the 27th.
There's lots to do around camp today in preparation for our move. The Seals and I dig out the tent we've been using as a kitchen-area and set it up so that it can be quickly dismantled early tomorrow morning. I'm happy to be shoveling again. Porter & Grace get our tent ready for quick disassembly (e.g. digging up frozen chutes buried in the snow for any winter-camping keenos out there). We then dig a deep hole (yes, more digging) in which we'll bury all of our extra food, gear and our sleds before we head up in the morning.
Monopoly Deal isn't on the cards for today. Instead, we spend the time drinking tea, eating more burritos, discussing our layers for 'higher up', the forecast, and the cold. Whilst spirits are high, we're all keen to get up and get going. If the forecast is correct, we could realistically be drinking margaritas in Talkeetna by Saturday. The prospect of that is appealing....
We crawl into our sleeping bags tonight to a poor forecast and more snow. Am keeping my fingers (and toes) crossed for a move tomorrow..!
MORE TO COME TOMORROW AS WE MOVE TO 17,000FT WITH HEAVY LOADS - WHILST DENALI UNLEASHES HER GUSTY WRATH...
MORE TO COME TOMORROW AS WE MOVE TO 17,000FT WITH HEAVY LOADS - WHILST DENALI UNLEASHES HER GUSTY WRATH...
Day 16: 26 June 2018
4.45am and I'm awake. It's snowing outside and visibility is poor BUT I know today's move is critical if we want to be in position at 17,000 for the 1-day weather window. In mountaineering terms it's called, 'threading the needle'. .
After a tense 6am breakfast we return to our tents in an 'aggressive holding pattern' in the hope that the weather improves. We've all packed our sleeping bags in our heavy packs so end up playing Monopoly Deal. At around 9am we get the shout from Wes. We're on the move!!!
We quickly fall into a rhythm for the move up the hill and onto the fixed lines. Whilst the wind is "breezy", looking up I can tell that above the ridge the winds are full-on with spin drift funneling high into the sky. In weather terms it's called, 'blowing a hoolie'. This is definitely not going to be fun.
And it definitely isn't.
And it definitely isn't.
The wind gusts are strong, aggressive, painful and cold - and combined with a heavy pack it makes moving over the exposed ridge challenging. I definitely don't have as much fun as I normally would on this terrain. We move efficiently and I’m SO HAPPY when we pass the final exposed section of the ridge and roll into Camp 17,000ft. Stunning camp. Blue skies. No wind. Heaven.
After a character-building tent-platform building session (which ends with an intervention by a Seal) we pile in 4 people into our 3-person tent. It's 'snug' but the warmth is welcome and we settle in for our night at 17,000ft. Tomorrow's the day we've all been working for and, to be perfectly honest, I couldn't be more ready!!
MORE TO COME TOMORROW AS WE HEAD FOR THE 20,000ft SUMMIT OF DENALI!!!!!
Day 17: 27 June 2018 - Part 1 of 2
The weather’s beyond what we could’ve hoped. After reaching Denali Pass we traverse across a long flat-ish section - the "Football Field" - & ascend the final slope, "Pig Hill", below the incredible summit ridge. Climbing Pig Hill is definitely not fun. I've renamed it 'Profanity Hill'. BUT reaching the top is 120% worth the boiling hot slog.
And BOOM!!! Oh. Those. Views. No. Words.
I see the summit beyond the final super, SUPER exposed ridge. This is when I know we've made it - and as a solid, awesome powerhouse of a team. I'm SO incredibly proud of our team & every person that has contributed to our joint success. It's one of those moments I know I'll consciously hang-on to forever - the way we did it & the fun we had will encapsulate every memory I’ll have of this incredible expedition. .
Our final few feet along the ridge are a blur. I can see the familiar curvature of the earth. The sky is bluer-than blue. We put our arms around each other and walk to the summit together. We. Have. Done. It.
We've reached the summit of Denali at 20,310ft / 6190m.
MORE TO COME AS WE'RE ONLY 1/2 WAY THERE & DESCEND TO 17,000FT.
Day 17: 27 June 2018 - Part 2 of 2
Our summit celebration draws to a close as the -25 degree temperatures & tingling fingers & toes remind us that we still have a long afternoon & evening ahead. The summit is only halfway there. We rope back up & return along the ridge to the top of Pig Hill & commence our descent.
As the day began, so it ends. In absolutely stellar conditions. I can, without a doubt, say it’s the most spectacular sunset I’ve ever seen in my life - even though the sun never truly sets.
Eric leads & our rope team follows. We stop regularly for breaks, pictures... and high fives (x 10). We’re all in awe at the conditions & our incredible good fortune. As with all Type 2 Fun, our previous shovelling anxiety, weather uncertainty, the damp, cold and general worries are forgotten. We live in the moment soaking up every single breathless breath. Bliss.
We roll into Camp 17,000 at 12.45 am - it’s still light but the moon is out. Falling into the cozy comfort of the tent with a bowl of Raman noodles is the perfect end to what has been a day I’ll remember for the rest of my life. Massive thanks to our incredible guide, Wes Bunch (legend!!), co-guide, Eric & the team at Alaska Mountaineering School. And, of course, Grace, Porter & the Seals. Thank you. ❤️
WILL WE MAKE BASECAMP? CHECK IN TOMORROW AS THE LURE OF THICK AIR INSPIRES A BIG DAY...AND A BIVVY.
A short night. We're up at 7am packing our sleds. Following yesterday's summit success we're keen to descend to Basecamp - the forecast calls for snow & the last thing we want is to be stuck at 11,000ft in a cycle of shoveling. There's added motivation of burgers, mojitos and moscow mules in Talkeetna... as well as a shower. It's been 18 days. Yikes.
The descent to 17,000 goes fairly smoothly. There are teams heading up the fixed lines & I'm happy to be going down. I'm knackered - I power-nap whilst an early dinner is prepared (thx Eric ) at 14,000ft. We agree to go as far as we can tonight to push hard to get to Basecamp. I'm not convinced & set a personal target of 7,000ft deciding to take things one step at a time.
As we descend I develop a love-hate relationship with my sled. It runs into my heels & accelerates downhill until the tension in the rope grinds it to a halt & drags beside me like I'm 'walking a 50lb dog'. I'm comforted by the fact that we're all in our personal 'pain caves' & developing our own coping mechanisms. Grace provides the entertainment (expletives included) while Wes is the voice of experience.
By 3am we reach 7,000ft. By now we've been awake for nearly 24h & visibility isn't great. We call it a day throw, our sleeping bags onto the snow & dive in for the 'night' (until 5.30am). It's a beautiful, magical, surreal experience... Combined with the tiredness & adrenaline the only emotion I can feel is sheer contentment. A sleeping bag hasn't ever been so comfortable. I wake at 5am and it's snowing on my face... .
WILL WE MAKE BASECAMP? CHECK IN TOMORROW TO FIND OUT WHETHER WE CAN NAVIGATE THE CREVASSES WITH THE INCENTIVE OF FOOD, DRINKS AND SHOWERS!
Day 19: 29 June 2018 (finale)
I pull a jacket over my head & fall into a deep sleep for our 2.5hour bivvy at 7000ft. I wake to a layer of snow being dusted off me by the Seals who are up & ready. I get the sense that they're used to little sleep and 48-hour days. It's 5.30am & although I'm feeling absolutely wiped, I am SO excited. Today we'll reach basecamp - and, weather dependent, Talkeetna! Whoop! Whoop!
We rope up for the final time & plod out the final 4 hours into basecamp. I get my final views of the incredible Alaska range. Mt. Foraker with an ominous lenticular cloud, an endless landscape of snow, pockets of blue sky above. I remind myself to live in the moment - to soak up this incredible environment. I feel so tremendously lucky to be here in the middle of one of the most stunning amphitheaters on earth & to be sharing it with this team.
Things happen quickly in Basecamp. The plane is called, we sort gear separating sharps & sleds. Then just like that the plane lands on the snow & we're boarding. It's bitter sweet... I'm excited for a shower but sad that this experience is drawing to a close. I feel so incredibly lucky - a theme that's been omnipresent through this expedition. Months of planning, 19 days of execution. And just like that, it's done. We achieved our goal, we summited Denali. And, more importantly, we summited in good-style, as a team, and had FUN. All the hallmarks of a successful expedition.
When friends become family. None of this would’ve been possible without our guide Wes. An amazing, highly experienced & guide & leader. Even through some challenging days, he kept our spirits up & made tough decisions that proved to be the right decisions. Also a massive thanks to my amazing tentmates Grace and Porter. And of course Eric and the Seals. All I can say is, "HIGH FIVE". 🙌❤️
THAT'S IT FOR THE DENALI DIARIES! Until next time & the next adventure! Thanks for following, your kind messages & do please stay tuned for occasional out-takes, highlights & lessons learned.... 🙄
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