The People You Meet Along The Way: Biscuits and Tea in Thame

The magic of Nepal isn’t just about the Himalayas. There’s also magic to be found in the hillsides of the soaring mountain peaks. I was reminded of this today as I started down a rabbit warren of photographs looking for ‘epic climbing pictures’ from my adventures in the mountains for an upcoming presentation. 

The more I looked for ‘epic pictures’ the less I felt connected. And I began to wonder why. Why was it that an exercise that should have fed an appetite for adventure and love for storytelling actually bored me? 

I went for a walk outside to clear my head. I made myself a coffee. I surfed the internet for inspiration. Nothing helped. It all felt flat. Very flat.

I sat back down behind my laptop and found myself flicking through a ‘painful’ reel of expedition photographs. I stumbled upon the 2015 earthquake. I still struggle to look at these images because of the feelings that resurface. Feelings that are incredibly intense and difficult to put into words – anxiety, helplessness, sadness, guilt – but also hope, happiness, humility, strength and resilience. I look back at the person I was in those photographs. Strong, connected and driven by an alignment of purpose and passion. What was so different about that person from 2015 and the person I was striving to be in my ‘epic pictures’ persona which litter my Instagram today?

Then my eyes landed on a photograph that I connected to more strongly than any photo on my ‘epic mountain reel’. The weathered, kind faces of an elderly couple that I visited in the aftermath of the earthquake on a visit into the Khumbu region. My mind went back to the day of the photograph….

The Lessons of Thame... 

Between continued aftershocks and a constant threat of landslides, my journey into the Khumbu had been a daunting one, but one I undertook with a strong sense of mission and purpose. I traveled with friend Dorje Sherpa into the region to conduct an assessment of the damage and to deliver much-needed relief from our “Help Sherpa Help Nepal” fundraising efforts to the people of Thame village, just off the well-worn trail past the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar. 

The valley of Thame and its neighboring Thameteng had been devastated by the earthquake including complete destruction of the Thame monastery, one of the oldest in the Khumbu. Any buildings that ‘survived’ the first earthquake were subsequently destroyed in the aftershocks. A total of 423 houses were damaged affecting the population of 1876 people.

On the dusty path into Thame we came across an elderly grey-haired woman standing motionless on the side of the road wearing traditional local dress accessorized by a filthy faded pink North Face jacket. Flowing between her fingers were dirt-encrusted and well-worn Buddhist prayer beads, also known as a mala. She looked blankly down the path, her face deep-set with wrinkles, a stream of tears rolling down her cheeks as she murmured mantras under her breath. I was drawn to her tired, tear filled eyes. 

Dorje approached her quietly whilst I stood back and looked on trying to be respectful of their exchange. They spoke in hushed tones for a few minutes and then Dorje motioned for me to join them as we started down the dirt path in the direction of a large pile of rubble. 

Sadly and alarmingly, the large pile of rubble turned out to be the remains of her home. An old man appeared. He was limping and his tattered clothes were also covered in dirt. He greeted Dorje and I with sad, tired eyes and clearly needed medical attention. My Nepali doesn’t extend much beyond “Namaste’, and I couldn’t understand a word of the conversation however the gist was clear. 

Dorje translated the subtleties of the scene.  The elderly couple’s home had been completely destroyed by the earthquake. The woman had been making lunch over an open fire at the time. In the chaotic aftermath of the quake, all remaining and salvageable possessions that the couple owned had been engulfed and completely destroyed by the fire. Everything they owned had been lost. 

My heart churned. I didn’t know how to react. They were too old and fragile to rebuild their home.  The heavy rains of the monsoon season were fast approaching. As Dorje explained the story I looked at the ground whilst my feet shifted awkwardly in the dust. 

The couple and Dorje exchanged a few more words and we were invited to crawl on our hands and knees in the dirt under a warren of bright blue and orange tarps which served as a temporary shelter. It was damp, cold and smoky. Despite her age and fragility, the woman was surprisingly agile and her eyes seemed to brighten at the prospect of having us as guests in her home. I sat silently on the ground as she and Dorje continued to speak whilst her husband looked quietly on. An emanciated cat roamed in and sat down at my feet, meowed and looking up at me quizzically. I'd never felt so foreign in my life yet so much like I was exactly where I was meant to be. 

Water boiled in a rusty old pot.

The woman poured me a cup of steaming black tea, topping it up with a generous spoonful of sugar. She humbly offered me the scalding tin mug with both hands, a kind, warm and strong smile on her weathered face. I accepted the tea and drank it quietly. She then turned, dug into an old plastic crate and pulled out an unopened pack of biscuits. The pack looked shiny and strange and almost cheerful with its bright yellow packaging juxtapositioned against the somber scene under the tarp. 

Despite my protests she opened the packaging, looked me directly in the eye, reached out her hand and in perfect English offered, “Biscuit?”

I was certain that was one of the very few English words that she knew. I also knew that declining the ration of biscuit would have caused offense. Her eyes lit up with pride as I accepted her offering.

Dorje and the elderly couple continued to speak whilst I sat and drank bottomless cups of tea. They say that being ‘fully present’ allows you to connect with an experience and ‘feel’ it on many levels. I was overwhelmed by the energy in that small enclosed space under the bright orange tarp. It’s a feeling so intense that I can still feel it today, nearly 4 years on and I’ve gone back to that moment time and time again in the years since. I was filled with an incredible sense of purpose. I knew that the lesson of humility and kindness displayed by that couple in selflessly offering me everything they had would be a lesson that would stay with me for life.

Later that morning, the couple joined us as we continued the short walk up to Thame village where we met with the local people for the carefully organized distribution of relief.  As the elderly man marked his thumb to ‘sign’ for the receipt of funds (a total of $66 per person) he looked up at me and smiled. I knew that in a very tiny way I’d made his life a little bit better and maybe even a little bit easier. 

But I know in my heart that the impression that he and so many others I met that day left so much more on me. 

In 2017 I returned to Thame to visit the couple, bringing my own biscuits and see how they were doing. I knocked on the door to a small two story ‘home’ built of stones and old plywood. I saw a face appear from the second floor window and the familiar smile. As the door opened we were greeted warmly and with pride, and invited into the home for tea. we made a small offering of butter and juniper on the family alter in the corner of the room.

Smiles and gestures have the power to communicate so much more than words and actions can transcend language barriers. Seeing that the elderly man was ok and that he and his wife had resiliently rebuilt their lives filled me with a tremendous sense of calm. 

Before I left, I asked for a ‘selfie’. When I shared the end-result he looked at the photo in awe and wonder. His eyes filling with tears.... 

He looked at me, smiled and said, ‘So old!’.

I’ll never forget that day and I look forward to returning to Thame in a few weeks time.

In travel, so much inspiration is found through the stories of the people we meet along the way. A great reminder to breathe, truly live in the moment and take the time to enjoy the journey - because sometimes it is journey that IS the destination.... 

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The People You Meet: "Where are you 'at'?

A friend recently reached out and asked where I was ‘at’. His use of quotation marks meant he wasn’t looking to hear that I was at Starbucks ordering a double-shot latte. The question made me pause, self-check and think - the reaction which met the questions intended purpose. Where was I ‘at’, really?

The question was timely and insightful. I’d slowly fallen into a cycle of chasing opportunities and experiences without much thought. "Fear of missing out" (aka FOMO) driven by an egoistic desire to ‘live life to its fullest because life is short’. Cliché. 

A potentially toxic alchemy of ambiguity stoked by social media, mid-life ‘crisis’, rejection, redirection and an incessant fear of not achieving my ‘so-called potential’. Somewhat ironically, in worrying about ‘not achieving my potential’, I was straying further from my potential - and further from my sense of “purpose” as a result.

What mountain are you climbing?

There are literally thousands of quotes about ‘purpose’ – I know this because I’ve spent more hours than I care to admit reading Instagram "inspirational quote" posts looking for answers that I already have. My favourite comes courtesy of Friedrich Nietzsche:

“He who has a ‘why’ to live for can bear almost any,‘how’”. 

Essentially, be brave enough to live the life you want to live, according to your vision and your purpose instead of the expectations and opinions of others.  A simple quote yet hard to execute in practice… Hence why the, “I’m at Starbucks,” response to the well-intentioned question would’ve been an easier answer.

When I was in my late 20s and 30s I invested a lot of time ‘chasing summits’, both real and proverbial. I cringe when I write that.  Don’t get me wrong – it was a LOT of fun. I saw incredible parts of the world, experienced unique moments, developed deep friendships, and achieved some pretty big goals both in my career and in climbing mountains across the Himalayas, Andes and Alps. During this time I spent my time managing a fine line between a supportive corporate employer and cold hypoxic basecamps. Plus a lot of hard work and grit in between. And it was 100% worth it – all the conscious choices, decisions and investments. 

At the time, mountain summits were my purpose.  And I did well in working incredibly hard to maintain a steady focus in pursuing them, even knocking off a few big ones along the way… 

But did this truly fulfil me and feed a deeper desire to do ‘something more’…?  Well, honestly, no, not really.

I first discovered climbing in 2008 as the result of a break-up. Let’s be brutally honest – I got dumped. I escaped to the Himalayas to ‘heal’ and I joined a small expedition to climb Mera Peak, a 6300m “trekking peak” in the Everest region. I knew very little about mountaineering, had little experience, and was woefully unprepared. 

Three challenging weeks later our team reached the summit and I looked over a panorama of Himalayan giants framed against a cloudless blue sky. It was absolutely breathtaking. I knew that despite everything that I’d gone through to get there (it definitely hadn’t been easy), that there was no place on Earth I’d rather be. The boyfriend was forgotten and a new ‘passion’ for seeing the world from a different perspective had taken hold.  And off I went… 

This passion fed my ‘ego’ for a while - something I really needed at the time.  I aligned with an inspiring tribe of people that ‘understood’ my drive and helped me achieve my career and summit-goals. This included a number of kind and patient guides who became life-mentors and coaches as much as they were mountain guides. The insights and lessons that I learned from them and from my experiences helped build self-awareness, courage, confidence, and develop discipline and inner strength to see through barriers and overcome challenge. Mountains were the vehicle and the people I met along the way were the enablers to help unlock who I was, what ‘drove’ me, and most importantly what ‘fuelled’ my soul. 

Over twenty-five expeditions later climbing, trekking, biking and skiing in countries around the world I began to realise that what actually sparked me, what made my eyes light up and put ‘fire in my soul’ was so much more than mountain summits. The spark was so much more than ‘conquering’ trails, setting records, and looking for the ‘rah-rah-rah’ from a ‘like’ or a ‘retweet’… 

What truly sparked me and activated my energy was people. More specifically, sharing the journey in getting to some of these far-flung places (mentally and physically), the lessons learned along the way and, in some small way, prompting others to say ‘yes’ to stepping outside of their own metaphorical comfort zones. 

I came to this realisation very early in the pursuit of my climbing journey, but found myself downplaying it due to a strange inner drive to continue on my ‘summit-bagging path’ because it was the obvious, easier and more social-media friendly one. 

I began to deprioritise my authentic self and treated my true passion as a secondary by-product. I'm not sure I knew quite where I was 'at', at the time.

The day the earth moved…

After a while, I unsurprisingly found that feeding my ego through summits was no longer fulfilling or fuelling me. This was underlined during the 2015 Nepal earthquake, an event that shook me to my core.  

At the time of the earthquake, I was in Tibet, fully acclimatised and mid-way through an expedition to climb Shishapangma and Cho Oyu, two of the highest mountains in the world. My goal was to climb both mountains back-to-back in one season – this had only ever been done by one other woman. It was a big meaty challenge and one I’d worked and trained hard for. Lots of discipline, commitment, courage and creativity. 

I was passionate about the projects success. My journey was even being filmed as part of a short documentary and the small handful of social-media followers I had were being appropriately ‘spammed’ with updates on my progress. I’d been raising money for several incredible charities. I felt like I was doing the expedition for all the right reasons – checking all the boxes, so to speak. And on the surface I was – and it was all going to plan.  

The earthquake very quickly changed all that. Not only did it put an abrupt end to the expedition, it also prompted an immediate refocus mentally as well as physically. It challenged my purpose at its very core. 

In a way, it was karma’s way of saying, ‘where are you ‘at’?, and forcing an almost obvious answer.

Staying in Nepal following the earthquake was the easiest decision I’ve ever made. The calling was so intense that I can still feel it today, nearly 4 years on and haven’t felt anything like it since. 

I remember crying in my tent, still very much in shock from our experiences on the mountain. The tears weren’t because of what had physically happened on the mountain during the quake.  Rather, the tears flowed because I knew in my heart that I was absolutely terrified to stay in Nepal with all of the devastation, discomfort, unknowns and uncertainty. In the same breath, I knew without a shadow of doubt that I had to stay and that I was going to stay. Reconciling this fear with an overwhelming sense of purpose drew upon every bit of strength that I’d developed in my ‘mountaineering journey’, and using that strength to give back. To fulfill a calling that I simply could never have denied. So I stayed.

I became physically and emotionally involved in on-the-ground relief work both in Kathmandu and in the Khumbu region. I helped mobilise fundraising activities, working closely with several local and international charities. I learned firsthand about resilience, compassion, empathy, generosity, and kindness from some of the best teachers. I found incredible mentors who kindly took me under their wing and became like family.  

I felt I had a true purpose and that in embracing uncertainty, following my heart, and moving beyond a ‘fear of failure’ or following what I’d created as an artificial ‘pre-determined path’ had helped me to connect with what had truly fuelled me all along. And I don’t think that I’ve ever felt more secure or self-aware as a result – in an environment that could not have been more chaotic. During this time, mountains summits were never far from my thoughts but they no longer defined me or what I was truly capable of. 

When passion and purpose collide...

The earthquake never stopped me from climbing. It did however prompt a refocus and recalibration. Since 2015 I’ve continued to follow my passion for the mountains, climbing in Nepal and more recently in Canada and Alaska. But my focus and sense of ‘purpose’ has definitely become more defined and I no longer get the same ‘buzz’ off of a summit goal. The summit is for the ego. 

What I’ve learned is deeper and purpose-driven, from the ‘soul’ and from the heart. I now know that I climb for the people and the journey – sharing the experiences with others, and subsequently prodding, instigating and enabling others to ‘unlock’ their own stories and fulfil their own dreams - whether in a mountaineering environment or in life more broadly. 

Sometimes this is tactical – e.g. “How do you use a jumar? What’s the best down jacket? What’s the best training for an 8000’er.”  And sometimes, it’s about motivating people to realise their own journeys by prompting them to ‘check in,’ and understand what is truly stopping them from achieving their dreams. “What’s stopping you from going to Base Camp? Why don’t you ask for the time off? The worst your boss can say is, ‘no’, and removing self-doubt “Of course you can do it!” 

I’m grateful to organisations like Arc’teryx who have provided regular platforms to do this and supported me in sharing this narrative.  And I’m incredibly proud of those who use these forums as inspiration and prompts to, ‘say yes’. You know who you are!

So where am I ‘at’?

Like clockwork for the past 10 years, I find myself “at” the same place. That is, looking ahead to the pre-monsoon Himalayan climbing season asking myself “What am I going to climb this year… and why?” Whilst the more tactical aspects of Spring climbing plans are at the forefront of my mind, I continue to hold tight to aligning purpose and passion. 

In a world so heavily influenced by social media it’s easy to become distracted and portray an image that isn’t me or present a diluted version of what drives me or what my values are. Hence why my friends’ check-in was so well timed and gratefully received. 

I have a few exciting projects underway (my fingers tingle with energy as I type!).  Projects that have been developing in my mind for a while and that have engaged the imaginations and support of an incredible community of friends. 

So much of life is about leaning into the unknown. It’s about growth - moving toward people and moments you can’t predict the outcome of... A delicate balancing act of finding comfort in discomfort in a world that’s dynamic and constantly changing. It’s about adapting and making choices - some clear, some a bit foggier - that encourage us to move closer to the truth of who we are. This is something that I’m learning as I get older - and arguably wiser! 

I’m learning to trust in this truth. Owning it. Living it and breathing it. I’m not going to lie, it still feels like struggle to understand who I am and what I want but I have to remind myself that I’m forging a new path. Regularly asking myself, “what s ‘serving’ me and the world? What puts fire in my soul?” I’m learning that if something doesn’t feel right, to move on. I’m learning to follow my heart and my instincts. More often than not, they’re right…   

Thanks to prompts like, ‘Where are you “at”’, I’m learning to “check in.”  My inner compass is a measure. I have so much gratitude for an amazing tribe of people who help me to do this – because sometimes that inner compass needs a tiny bit of tweaking and recalibration.

When was the last time you checked in with yourself or with a friend and asked where you’re ‘at’? 

A small but simple gesture.

There are many days when I wonder what I’m doing and why - but then I stop, take a deep breath and pause. And I feel the growth and I'm excited where the adventure will lead….


Thanks for reading... xx 

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People You Meet: My (much) younger self...

A picture which makes me smile... It was taken in April 1999, mid-way through my first adventures to Nepal. I was a bit younger, a bit more naieve, a bit braver, with a few less bruises - real & proverbial. I genuinely can't believe that this was 19 years ago. Would I change anything about the way life has unfolded? Hell no. Would I relive it? Hell yes. 

But what advice would I give to my younger self? I sat down today to jot down a few thoughts which are by no means comprehensive..

Over the course of the past 19 years, through the ups and downs, through heartbreak and through joy, through truly breathing from my soul - and sometimes hardly breathing at all I've learned to...

Lean into uncertainty and the unknown. Growth means that you have to move towards people & moments you can't predict the outcome of. Trust in that mystery. Everything in life happens for a reason - even though you may not understand why at the time. You're going to experience the loss of loved ones, have your heart broken, go thru job-changes, natural disasters & meet people who don’t share your values. But in leaning into uncertainty & the unknown you'll also experience happiness, fulfilment, see the world & meet incredible, inspiring people who will both lead & guide. In turn, you'll instigate opportunities that’ll make small, positive dents in peoples lives. Embrace these moments. They’ll fuel your passion to make a difference. And remember to stop and breathe along the way.

Be kind, show gratitude & be authentic. Do what matters most to you; do what makes you feel alive and happy - in your case it'll be climbing mountains & 'giving back'. Don't let the expectations and ideas of others limit who you are - there's more to life than pleasing people & following others’ prescribed path. Move on. 

It’ll be lonely at times, but you’re never really alone. Love your family. Nurture your friendships.

Trust yourself. When it feels like a struggle understand who you are & what you want, remember you're forging a new path. Trust your gut, trust your instincts.  Embrace adventure. 

Don’t rush. Take time to listen to the stories of the people you meet along the way. Strangers will become friends. And their stories will become yours. 

And finally, remember to laugh. You have one life. Enjoy it. Live it without regret.

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INTERVIEW with ILIVEXTREME.COM "Climbing Denali"

TAKING THE FIRST STEPS... A series of events that kicked-off a roller-coaster 10-years of adventure..! Just before I left for Denali last month, I shared a few candid insights into the literal (and proverbial) highs and lows of a life in the mountains, why I love my (desk) day-job, the "fun scale", my mountain-inspirations, failings in the kitchen and how I redeem myself through mean bloody-marys.... 

Thanks to ILIVEXTREME for the opportunity to share my story...! It was a lot of fun and I enjoyed your questions..! 

The full interview with pictures can be found via: http://ilivextreme.com/climbing-denali/

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It’s a Sunday morning in early June and I’m catching up with friend and mountaineer Heather Geluk as she sits in an airy Scandinavian-themed coffee shop in Toronto’s east side.  Born in Ridgetown, a small town in Ontario Canada, Heather and I first met a couple of years ago when I was giving a talk at the Adventure Travel Show in London and we were introduced by a mutual friend. After living in the UK for many years, she’s now back living in Canada, but not one to sit still for very long, we talk about her latest trip to climb the highest mountain peak in North America – Denali. I will be attempting Denali in 2020 after harbouring the desire to do so for the past 4 or 5 years and I’m stockpiling all of the tips in the following interview.

When and how did you first become interested in mountaineering?

Just over 10 years ago in 2008. I needed some “space” to make some big life decisions – job, boyfriend, where to live – all that chunky stuff that life throws at us from time to time! I booked a very last minute trip to Nepal to climb Mera Peak, a 6300m mountain in the Everest region. I knew very little, practically nothing about mountaineering, had zero experience, and was woefully unprepared but was fortunate to have joined an amazing team with a very patient guide. Three challenging weeks later we reached the summit of Mera Peak and I looked out and over the panorama of Himalayan giants framed against a cloudless blue sky. It was absolutely breathtaking. Looking out at Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kanchenjunga – I knew that despite everything that I’d gone through to get there, there was no place on Earth I’d rather be. And that was the beginning of a whirlwind 10 years of climbing some of the world’s highest mountains. The boyfriend was quickly forgotten, the job sorted itself out, and a new passion for seeing the world from a different perspective had taken hold.

Since that happened how has your life changed?

It has changed in countless ways. Since that trip to Mera Peak in 2008, I’ve been on over 25 significant expeditions to the highest mountains on earth including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, others in the high Himalaya, Andes and Alps. On these expeditions I’ve learned to ‘dig deep’, tapping into reserves of strength, determination and the knowledge that simply putting one foot in front of the other can achieve so much. But even before that, I’ve learned to manage training and extensive preparation around the commitments of a demanding job by honing skills in discipline, commitment, courage and creativity.

Climbing’s helped me connect to an incredible global community of people passionate about the outdoors – it’s given me a tribe and a vibe. Climbing’s been a vehicle for me to visit countries I may not otherwise have experienced – Iran, Peru, Argentina, Iceland, Morocco, Tanzania, Nepal, India, Bhutan- through interaction with people at the local level. Climbing’s also helped me to find a purpose. I feel incredibly fortunate to travel to these far-flung places. I feel a strong sense of purpose and responsibility to share this with others – either through storytelling, writing, photography, and, most importantly, for raising money for good causes. It’s my hope that in some small way my actions will help make the lives of others’ better, easier or that they’ll encourage people to step outside of their own comfort zones and achieve more than they ever dreamed possible.

Tell me about Your plan for Denali this year…

Liv! On your birthday (June 8th) I’m heading to Alaska to climb Denali. I’ve had Denali on my ‘bucket list’ for ages and knew that when I moved back to Canada I’d make it happen. And here we are. Denali will be a tough expedition – the mountain rises an icy 6,190m (20,310 feet) out of a sea of glaciers and other peaks that comprise the Alaska Range. High altitude, sub-Arctic conditions, fickle weather, unpredictable storms, steep slopes, and deep crevasses combine to make Denali one of the most difficult and severe mountains in the world. The climb will involve relaying loads of equipment over 66 kilometers (41 miles) over the course of 22 days, establishing camps and climbing slowly enough for proper acclimatization. In addition, I’ll be carrying 60 pound pack and pulling a 40 pound sled, loaded with gear to establish camps on the mountain as I prepare to get into position to summit in late June. Oh, and did I mention that the temperature will be a balmy –minus-30 degrees?


Holy crap it’s just going to be incredible isn’t it. I’m so excited for you and to hear all about it when you get back! You often embark upon these trips representing a charity..

My passion for adventure is the by-product of a love for the outdoors instilled by rural roots and an inherent sense of ‘wanderlust.’  As a kid I spent a lot of time playing outside with my brothers, getting up to all sorts of trouble. These same rural roots instilled in me the importance of community and the responsibility of playing a part to make it better. I try and use my experiences climbing the highest mountains as opportunities to inspire others and to give back to the community by raising funds and awareness to support health and wellbeing of women and babies. I organise regular treks to Kilimanjaro and Everest Base Camp to support women’s health charities. The awesome thing about these trips is that not only have we been able to raise heaps of money and awareness about the critical need for research into women’s health, they’ve also helped colleagues become friends and individuals to push themselves well and truly beyond their comfort zones.

In 2015, I was on a 8,000m mountain in a very remote part of Nepal during the devastating earthquake that killed over 9,000 people and injured over 25,000. It was an extremely challenging time physically and emotionally. I was fortunate to have survived the earthquake and subsequently spent two months in Nepal providing humanitarian support – working with local charities to support all those who had lost virtually everything.  It was my purpose to be there and help especially after the Nepalese community had shown me endless hospitality during previous trips. I helped to channel funds from the international community to local, grassroots charities and also relayed money and supplies into communities in remote mountainous regions. The memories from those months will stay with me forever and have fundamentally changed the way that I approach my life. Life is wickedly, preciously short and each and every moment should be savoured and cherished.

Who are your mountaineering idols?

Lakpa Rita Sherpa is one of the incredible people that I’ve been fortunate enough to call a friend – I’d definitely put him up there as one of my idols. Raised in Everest region of Nepal in the picturesque village of Thame, Lakpa has been professionally guiding and climbing around the world for nearly two decades. His mountaineering achievements are significant, with an astonishing 17 summits of Mt. Everest plus 22 summits of Cho-Oyu and numerous other peaks in Nepal. Lakpa was the first Sherpa and first Nepali to climb the Seven Summits and he regularly leads teams on mountains including Aconcagua, Denali and of Mount Vinson in Antarctica. He has summited Mount Rainier over 200 times and in 2013 was named one of Outside Magazine’s “Adventurers of The Year”.  He has been a friend and a constant presence for me during my many visits to Nepal, I cherish his warmth, grace and good humour. I’d put Lakpa up there on my top 5 list of the most selfless, humble, kind and softly-spoken people that I’ve ever met. Not only that but he balances this by being an incredible husband and father to his family and an active member of the Sherpa community both in his home in Seattle as well as in Nepal. In two words – Lakpa rocks.

A fellow Canadian, Isabelle Santoire is another inspirational person. She’s an inspiring athlete, ambassador and incredible teacher. On skis, on a rock face, or when meeting to discuss ambitions over a coffee in her current home in sunny Chamonix, France. She’s passionate about sharing the experiences in the mountains. Her goals are to encourage others to experience the same and go beyond their perceived physical and mental limits. It’s no surprise that Isabelle has become a local icon with her contagious smile and warm personality. But what makes her even more amazing is that not only is she a kick-ass guide (among the first female UIAGM guides), she’s also a proud mother to 2 gorgeous young children. She continues to live in the constant search for perfect balance enabling others to achieve their alpine dreams safely and spending time with her family.

Why do you think we’re so obsessed with mountaineering?

Well, it has given me purpose. Ten years ago I found myself selfishly asking, “Seriously? Is this it? Isn’t there more to life than this..?” In my heart, I knew something was missing but I didn’t know exactly what it was or what I was supposed to do to find it. Over the course of the ten years that followed – from that initial summit of Mera Peak through to today, I do my best to create and live a life filled with a deep sense of purpose, happiness whilst getting paid to do work I enjoy – and yes, I have a normal desk job and spend more hours than I care to admit doing powerpoint presentations and spread-sheets (powerpoint has become a form of self-expression!) BUT I’ve used the skills learned inside and outside of the office to attempt to make a meaningful impact in the world.

I also truly believe that everything we do and everyone we meet along this life-journey is put in our path for a reason. I know that sounds a bit ‘whimsical’ but I genuinely believe it. There are no accidents; we’re all teachers – if we’re willing to pay attention to the lessons and trust our instincts, we learn. This means not being afraid to take risks and not wait for some miracle to come knocking.  It’s hard work and can be scary at times but this perspective has given me the most tremendous appreciation for life and has helped to turn moments of uncertainty, confusion and discomfort into opportunity.

When do you get up to when you’re not at altitude?

When I’m not climbing a mountains, I’m helping organisations climb proverbial mountains.  My “day job” is as a communications and change management consultant in downtown Toronto. I love the contrast between life as a consultant and the mountains. I’ve realised that I can’t do one without the other – I’m a better consultant because I climb. I’m a better climber because I’m a consultant.

How have you been training for Denali?

I grew up playing team sports and have always had a good level of fitness. Having said that, I’m terrible at motivating myself and can usually find about 10 different things on my never-ending-procrastination-to-do-list as an excuse to avoid going to the gym – washing the dishes, doing laundry, ironing suddenly seem so much more appealing!

Unfortunately, I do need to be fit both mentally and physically travel to and survive  and most importantly ENJOY climbing in these far-flung and remote environments. Interestingly, boxing has been a fantastic fitness vehicle for me to prepare to head into the mountains. The training sessions that I’ve been involved in between the UK and Canada have provided a group-environment that is individual (yet team) oriented, intense, and affordable, under the guidance of amazing instructors and surrounded by a fantastic network of support.

There have been thick books written about training for climbs. Above and beyond the fitness aspects covered in these books, it’s also important to mention the importance of taking time out give yourself some TLC – your body is your most important tool so nurture it. Eat good, healthy and non-processed foods, eat 3 meals per day, get enough sleep and take time out away from the devices to relax your mind, listen to some music, go for a walk in a forest, listen to the birds, read a book… and… just… chill.

Other than Alaska, where else is on your destination list?

I’d love to travel to see the fjords of Norway and also to see the granite towers and icebergs of Patagonia.  Both appeal for the jaw-dropping beauty and the fragility of their environments.

What would you say to someone getting into climbing?

Climbing is fun. And fun, like anything, can be nuanced; not all fun is created equal.

I learned about the ‘fun scale’ from a guide and friend Zac whilst climbing in Scotland about 10 years ago and it’s helped me to rationalise climbing and the  ‘pain caves’ I find myself in from time to time. Anyone I’ve met and spoken to about climbing will know my views on the fun scale….

Type I Fun – It’s enjoyable while it’s happening and elicits an immediate reaction from endorphins. Quite simply, it’s fun. Good fun doing things we love to do. Scrumptious food, meaty red wine, powder skiing, sex (sometimes!), margaritas beside the pool with friends, happy hours on the dock….

Type II Fun – It’s miserable while it’s happening, but fun in retrospect – I call it the ‘rose tinted glasses’ effect. When you look back at the misery and discomfort, and forget how truly awful it was and you want to go through the ‘fun’ again.  Type II fun generally starts with the best of intentions and then things go sideways. You go from a scale of, ‘This is awesome and fun!’ and eventually get to the point of, “WTF. I’m SO over this”. Examples include doing an ironman, setting out on a long bike-ride, working out till you puke, and, usually, ice and alpine climbing.

When Zac told me about Type II fun we were on Ben Nevis doing  winter skills training. It was getting dark and we were due back at our refuge for dinner. I was stuck on a precariously exposed ledge with about 200m of air below my frozen feet, my goggles were fogging up, I’d lost feeling in my fingers about an hour before, visibility was zero, winds were howling around us and spindrift was pouring down from the upper reaches of the mountain and into my jacket. I can’t put into words how cold, awful and uncomfortable and stressed I was. On a scale of 1 – 10 I was deep in the negative digits. “Why on earth would anyone in their right mind EVER want to do this” is pretty much how I felt (insert expletives as appropriate!!).

By the time we reached the refuge and two bites into the world’s best lasagne drinking the worlds best wine, my tune had changed: “Ya know, that wasn’t so bad. What are we doing tomorrow?”

Type III Fun – this type of fun is not fun at all. Not even in retrospect. Afterward, you think, “What in the hell was I doing / thinking? If I ever come up with another idea that stupid, somebody shake some sense into me.”  Fortunately I don’t have too many of these experiences – and when I do I like to think of them as ‘character building’. Examples include one or two work-related projects I’ve been on, moving house, a failed relationship that lacked Type I fun. Shudder!

If you could choose one moment from your life to go back and re-experience, which would it be?

The moment I’d love to re-experience is coming down into Everest Base Camp after summiting Lhotse, an 8516m mountain in Nepal in late May, 2013. This was a ‘Type 2 fun’ experience. The descent from Lhotse was hard and scary. The extreme altitude, cold, rock-fall and exhaustion all contributed to a precarious and dangerous descent down the steep and icy Lhotse Face into Camp 2 at 6300m. My legs were so tired they felt detached from my body. I remember literally crawling into my tent and being so tired that I couldn’t sleep. But I was alive. And I’d summited. And so did my entire team. But none of that had really sunk in yet.

The next morning I summoned all of my strength and we made our way the final 700m down into Everest Base Camp.  I was climbing with a fabulous team from Adventure Consultants and as we rounded one of the final corners coming into camp we were met by a ‘Welcome Party’ made up of some of the incredible team of guides, base-camp managers and Sherpas. They were ringing bells, beating kitchen-pans with wooden spoons, singing, dancing with the HUGEST smiles on their faces. And cold beers. It was incredible. We totally partied. I struggle to even describe how my heart was filled with gratitude and happiness that day (and ‘great’ is SUCH an understatement). I get emotional just thinking about it. Definitely one of the best days of my life shared with an incredible group of friends. I’d do anything to relive that day.

What do you wish you could do better?

I wish I could cook. I’m terrible. But I make a mean Bloody Mary.

What’s the most ‘extreme’ thing you’ve ever done?

The most extreme thing I’ve ever done – that’s a tough one! My mind initially goes to the Himalayas but I think that the most extreme thing I’ve ever done is cycle 7500 across Canada over the course of 72 days – on a whim and without training… It was nuts (on hindsight and a good example of Type 2 fun) but awesome beyond words.  Definitely one of the best but maddest experiences of my life.

After that I’d have to say ‘online dating’. I’m still trying to determine what kind of fun that is..!!

--


You can follow Heather and her Denali climb progress on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter – She’s climbing Denali for the follow charities Wellbeing of Women (UK) and Women’s College hospital (Canada) she has also been sponsored on this particular summit attempt by Black Diamond Equipment, Arc’teryx and SUUNTO Fitness.

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The Denali Diaries: WEEK 3 & SUMMIT SUCCESS!

Day 15: 25 June 2018

A 'Rest Day' at 14,000ft in preparation for our anticipated move to 17,000ft tomorrow. The weather forecast is correct in its prediction of 80% chance of snow as we wake to snow but relatively mild temperatures hovering around -10 (ish). Whilst the forecast was 'sketchy' (at best) for tomorrow, there's a small, short high pressure system (aka better weather) rolling through in 2 days - so it's important that we get up to 17,000ft tomorrow to put us in position for the 20,000 ft summit on the 27th.

There's lots to do around camp today in preparation for our move. The Seals and I dig out the tent we've been using as a kitchen-area and set it up so that it can be quickly dismantled early tomorrow morning. I'm happy to be shoveling again. Porter & Grace get our tent ready for quick disassembly (e.g. digging up frozen chutes buried in the snow for any winter-camping keenos out there). We then dig a deep hole (yes, more digging) in which we'll bury all of our extra food, gear and our sleds before we head up in the morning. 

Monopoly Deal isn't on the cards for today. Instead, we spend the time drinking tea, eating more burritos, discussing our layers for 'higher up', the forecast, and the cold. Whilst spirits are high, we're all keen to get up and get going. If the forecast is correct, we could realistically be drinking margaritas in Talkeetna by Saturday. The prospect of that is appealing....

We crawl into our sleeping bags tonight to a poor forecast and more snow. Am keeping my fingers (and toes) crossed for a move tomorrow..!

MORE TO COME TOMORROW AS WE MOVE TO 17,000FT WITH HEAVY LOADS - WHILST DENALI UNLEASHES HER GUSTY WRATH... 

Day 16: 26 June 2018

4.45am and I'm awake. It's snowing outside and visibility is poor BUT I know today's move is critical if we want to be in position at 17,000 for the 1-day weather window. In mountaineering terms it's called, 'threading the needle'. .

After a tense 6am breakfast we return to our tents in an 'aggressive holding pattern' in the hope that the weather improves. We've all packed our sleeping bags in our heavy packs so end up playing Monopoly Deal. At around 9am we get the shout from Wes. We're on the move!!!

We quickly fall into a rhythm for the move up the hill and onto the fixed lines. Whilst the wind is "breezy", looking up I can tell that above the ridge the winds are full-on with spin drift funneling high into the sky. In weather terms it's called, 'blowing a hoolie'. This is definitely not going to be fun. 
And it definitely isn't. 

The wind gusts are strong, aggressive, painful and cold - and combined with a heavy pack it makes moving over the exposed ridge challenging. I definitely don't have as much fun as I normally would on this terrain. We move efficiently and I’m SO HAPPY when we pass the final exposed section of the ridge and roll into Camp 17,000ft. Stunning camp. Blue skies. No wind. Heaven. 

After a character-building tent-platform building session (which ends with an intervention by a Seal) we pile in 4 people into our 3-person tent. It's 'snug' but the warmth is welcome and we settle in for our night at 17,000ft. Tomorrow's the day we've all been working for and, to be perfectly honest, I couldn't be more ready!!

MORE TO COME TOMORROW AS WE HEAD FOR THE 20,000ft SUMMIT OF DENALI!!!!!

Day 17: 27 June 2018 - Part 1 of 2

SUMMIT DAY!! I wake to shouts of exuberation (e.g. expletives) about the blue-bird sky & perfect conditions & it's the day that doesn't stop giving. Over a leisurely & sunny breakfast we assess our first objective - 'The Autobahn' rising steeply to the Denali Pass at 18,200ft. It's an exposed traverse - today's stellar conditions make it a bit more comfortable. An insightful pep-talk from the Seals sets the tone for the day. Along with a lot of high-fives.

The weather’s beyond what we could’ve hoped. After reaching Denali Pass we traverse across a long flat-ish section - the "Football Field" - & ascend the final slope, "Pig Hill", below the incredible summit ridge. Climbing Pig Hill is definitely not fun. I've renamed it 'Profanity Hill'. BUT reaching the top is 120% worth the boiling hot slog.

And BOOM!!! Oh. Those. Views. No. Words. 

I see the summit beyond the final super, SUPER exposed ridge. This is when I know we've made it - and as a solid, awesome powerhouse of a team. I'm SO incredibly proud of our team & every person that has contributed to our joint success. It's one of those moments I know I'll consciously hang-on to forever - the way we did it & the fun we had will encapsulate every memory I’ll have of this incredible expedition. .

Our final few feet along the ridge are a blur. I can see the familiar curvature of the earth. The sky is bluer-than blue. We put our arms around each other and walk to the summit together. We. Have. Done. It. 

We've reached the summit of Denali at 20,310ft / 6190m. 

MORE TO COME AS WE'RE ONLY 1/2 WAY THERE & DESCEND TO 17,000FT.

Day 17: 27 June 2018 - Part 2 of 2

Our summit celebration draws to a close as the -25 degree temperatures & tingling fingers & toes remind us that we still have a long afternoon & evening ahead. The summit is only halfway there. We rope back up & return along the ridge to the top of Pig Hill & commence our descent.

As the day began, so it ends. In absolutely stellar conditions. I can, without a doubt, say it’s the most spectacular sunset I’ve ever seen in my life - even though the sun never truly sets. 

Eric leads & our rope team follows. We stop regularly for breaks, pictures... and high fives (x 10). We’re all in awe at the conditions & our incredible good fortune. As with all Type 2 Fun, our previous shovelling anxiety, weather uncertainty, the damp, cold and general worries are forgotten. We live in the moment soaking up every single breathless breath. Bliss.

We roll into Camp 17,000 at 12.45 am - it’s still light but the moon is out. Falling into the cozy comfort of the tent with a bowl of Raman noodles is the perfect end to what has been a day I’ll remember for the rest of my life. Massive thanks to our incredible guide, Wes Bunch (legend!!), co-guide, Eric & the team at Alaska Mountaineering School. And, of course, Grace, Porter & the Seals. Thank you. ❤️

WILL WE MAKE BASECAMP? CHECK IN TOMORROW AS THE LURE OF THICK AIR INSPIRES A BIG DAY...AND A BIVVY.

Day 18: 28 June 2018

A short night. We're up at 7am packing our sleds. Following yesterday's summit success we're keen to descend to Basecamp - the forecast calls for snow & the last thing we want is to be stuck at 11,000ft in a cycle of shoveling. There's added motivation of burgers, mojitos and moscow mules in Talkeetna... as well as a shower. It's been 18 days. Yikes.

The descent to 17,000 goes fairly smoothly. There are teams heading up the fixed lines & I'm happy to be going down. I'm knackered - I power-nap whilst an early dinner is prepared (thx Eric ) at 14,000ft. We agree to go as far as we can tonight to push hard to get to Basecamp. I'm not convinced & set a personal target of 7,000ft deciding to take things one step at a time. 

As we descend I develop a love-hate relationship with my sled. It runs into my heels & accelerates downhill until the tension in the rope grinds it to a halt & drags beside me like I'm 'walking a 50lb dog'. I'm comforted by the fact that we're all in our personal 'pain caves' & developing our own coping mechanisms. Grace provides the entertainment (expletives included) while Wes is the voice of experience.

By 3am we reach 7,000ft. By now we've been awake for nearly 24h & visibility isn't great. We call it a day throw, our sleeping bags onto the snow & dive in for the 'night' (until 5.30am). It's a beautiful, magical, surreal experience... Combined with the tiredness & adrenaline the only emotion I can feel is sheer contentment. A sleeping bag hasn't ever been so comfortable. I wake at 5am and it's snowing on my face... .

WILL WE MAKE BASECAMP? CHECK IN TOMORROW TO FIND OUT WHETHER WE CAN NAVIGATE THE CREVASSES WITH THE INCENTIVE OF FOOD, DRINKS AND SHOWERS!

Day 19: 29 June 2018 (finale)

I pull a jacket over my head & fall into a deep sleep for our 2.5hour bivvy at 7000ft. I wake to a layer of snow being dusted off me by the Seals who are up & ready. I get the sense that they're used to little sleep and 48-hour days. It's 5.30am & although I'm feeling absolutely wiped, I am SO excited. Today we'll reach basecamp - and, weather dependent, Talkeetna! Whoop! Whoop!

We rope up for the final time & plod out the final 4 hours into basecamp. I get my final views of the incredible Alaska range. Mt. Foraker with an ominous lenticular cloud, an endless landscape of snow, pockets of blue sky above. I remind myself to live in the moment - to soak up this incredible environment. I feel so tremendously lucky to be here in the middle of one of the most stunning amphitheaters on earth & to be sharing it with this team.

Things happen quickly in Basecamp. The plane is called, we sort gear separating sharps & sleds. Then just like that the plane lands on the snow & we're boarding. It's bitter sweet... I'm excited for a shower but sad that this experience is drawing to a close. I feel so incredibly lucky - a theme that's been omnipresent through this expedition. Months of planning, 19 days of execution. And just like that, it's done. We achieved our goal, we summited Denali. And, more importantly, we summited in good-style, as a team, and had FUN. All the hallmarks of a successful expedition.

When friends become family. None of this would’ve been possible without our guide Wes. An amazing, highly experienced & guide & leader. Even through some challenging days, he kept our spirits up & made tough decisions that proved to be the right decisions. Also a massive thanks to my amazing tentmates Grace and Porter.  And of course Eric and the Seals. All I can say is, "HIGH FIVE". 🙌❤️

THAT'S IT FOR THE DENALI DIARIES! Until next time & the next adventure! Thanks for following, your kind messages & do please stay tuned for occasional out-takes, highlights & lessons learned.... 🙄

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